Rolling down New Zealand's Waitaki Valley
May 29th 2010 09:37
Leaving Tekapo in the high country of New Zealand's South Island, we follow the road across a vast plateau. A few lonely mail boxes mark off huge farms and long driveways lead away to houses hidden somewhere way off in the distance. We skirt Lake Pukaki and cross the bright blue canal that spills from it. We pass through the hydro town of Twizel, through Omarama and Otematata and through wide valleys, where giant irrigation machines march across the paddocks like strange extra-terrestrial beings.
We head on through the Waitaki Valley, following the river down its course of dams and lakes and channels. Little more than half a century ago, it flowed freely down from the mountains, carving its way through farmland and bush. But then in the 1960s, the Waitaki Hydro Project harnessed the river’s power and transformed the landscape forever. Perhaps those who lost their land lamented it. Perhaps there were protests. I don’t recall. I do however recall, and in fact it comes back to haunt me quite regularly, the song that emerged from the project with the unforgettable lines....
“Roll on again Waitaki on your journey to the sea
Bringing power to all New Zealand
Better life for folks like me”
At the time of construction Benmore was the largest earth dam ever built. We drive to the top to marvel at the massive concrete spillway and the huge turbines. Even with these great, grey cement intruders, it’s a beautiful scene. The top dam is a deep, still turquoise pool where a houseboat floats idly in the shelter of an overhanging willow. Below, the unbelievably blue Lake Benmore laps gently at a sandy beach shaded by trees and ringed with sheltered grassy picnic spots.
The autumn sun is hot. The lake sparkles seductively. We have to swim. The icy water is at first a terrible shock, but soon it’s tolerable and finally, from the safe warm boards of the diving platform just offshore, it’s superb.
Benmore Dam
We head on through the Waitaki Valley, following the river down its course of dams and lakes and channels. Little more than half a century ago, it flowed freely down from the mountains, carving its way through farmland and bush. But then in the 1960s, the Waitaki Hydro Project harnessed the river’s power and transformed the landscape forever. Perhaps those who lost their land lamented it. Perhaps there were protests. I don’t recall. I do however recall, and in fact it comes back to haunt me quite regularly, the song that emerged from the project with the unforgettable lines....
“Roll on again Waitaki on your journey to the sea
Bringing power to all New Zealand
Better life for folks like me”
At the time of construction Benmore was the largest earth dam ever built. We drive to the top to marvel at the massive concrete spillway and the huge turbines. Even with these great, grey cement intruders, it’s a beautiful scene. The top dam is a deep, still turquoise pool where a houseboat floats idly in the shelter of an overhanging willow. Below, the unbelievably blue Lake Benmore laps gently at a sandy beach shaded by trees and ringed with sheltered grassy picnic spots.
Lake Benmore
The autumn sun is hot. The lake sparkles seductively. We have to swim. The icy water is at first a terrible shock, but soon it’s tolerable and finally, from the safe warm boards of the diving platform just offshore, it’s superb.
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