Singapore, a city of many cultures; Part 1 - the British
April 5th 2008 05:25
When Sir Stamford Raffles assigned the different groups of settlers to their own enclaves, back in Singapore’s early days, he may have hindered racial integration and held back the development of a new, unique Singaporean nation, but he did, wittingly, or unwittingly, help to keep their various cultures intact, allowing them to put down strong roots, to flourish and to survive into the future.
Under the Raffles plan, the British settled the city and the hills to the East, the Chinese were relegated to the South, the Indians to the North and the Muslims, including Malays to the North East.
Today, the British quarter is fragmented. All that remains of the nutmeg plantations which once covered the eastern hills is the name, Orchard Road, and most of the splendid colonial mansions that went with them have been swept away in redevelopment. Still, many grand old dames of British administration dot the city, like the Supreme Court, the Parliament buildings and the old Post Office, born again as the luxurious Fullerton Hotel. St Andrews Cathedral, veteran of countless Sunday Sermons and rites of passage, still dominates the landscape around City Hall. The Padang, the Singapore sports ground, dotted with figures in traditional white on summer weekends, still echoes with the sound of leather on willow and with triumphant shouts of “Six!’.
Then there’s Raffles Hotel, its majestic arches more beautiful than ever beside the plain facades of its 21st century sisters. It stands solid as rock, an eternal monument to the lost colonial lifestyle, the past age of white linen suits, panama hats, spittoons, vapid ladies in floaty frocks, high teas, peanuts and gin slings. The suits (at least in white linen) and the vapid ladies have gone, along with most of the panama hats and floaty frocks, while the spittoons, these days, are merely decorative. The gin sling, though, is immortalized now, with a local twist, as the Singapore Sling and the high teas, the peanuts and the peanut shell-littered floor of the Long Bar are still going strong.
For a taste of British Singapore, take a stroll along North Bridge Road, through the grounds of St Andrews Cathedral, past City Hall and the Supreme Court, across the Padang, over to the Fullerton, then back to Raffles landing site. Don’t forget to stop at Raffles Hotel on the way back for a stroll in the garden and a Singapore Sling in the Long Bar.
Next post, Singapore’s Chinatown.
Under the Raffles plan, the British settled the city and the hills to the East, the Chinese were relegated to the South, the Indians to the North and the Muslims, including Malays to the North East.
Raffles landing
Today, the British quarter is fragmented. All that remains of the nutmeg plantations which once covered the eastern hills is the name, Orchard Road, and most of the splendid colonial mansions that went with them have been swept away in redevelopment. Still, many grand old dames of British administration dot the city, like the Supreme Court, the Parliament buildings and the old Post Office, born again as the luxurious Fullerton Hotel. St Andrews Cathedral, veteran of countless Sunday Sermons and rites of passage, still dominates the landscape around City Hall. The Padang, the Singapore sports ground, dotted with figures in traditional white on summer weekends, still echoes with the sound of leather on willow and with triumphant shouts of “Six!’.
The Padang with the Supreme Court and City Hall in the background
Then there’s Raffles Hotel, its majestic arches more beautiful than ever beside the plain facades of its 21st century sisters. It stands solid as rock, an eternal monument to the lost colonial lifestyle, the past age of white linen suits, panama hats, spittoons, vapid ladies in floaty frocks, high teas, peanuts and gin slings. The suits (at least in white linen) and the vapid ladies have gone, along with most of the panama hats and floaty frocks, while the spittoons, these days, are merely decorative. The gin sling, though, is immortalized now, with a local twist, as the Singapore Sling and the high teas, the peanuts and the peanut shell-littered floor of the Long Bar are still going strong.
Raffles by night
For a taste of British Singapore, take a stroll along North Bridge Road, through the grounds of St Andrews Cathedral, past City Hall and the Supreme Court, across the Padang, over to the Fullerton, then back to Raffles landing site. Don’t forget to stop at Raffles Hotel on the way back for a stroll in the garden and a Singapore Sling in the Long Bar.
Next post, Singapore’s Chinatown.
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