Rio Centro, Part IV; Cinelandia
April 30th 2009 02:55
As the name suggests, this was the land of movie dreams. It was built on the vision of Mayor Pereira Passos at the beginning of the 20th century.
Laying waste old, narrow streets and run-down buildings, broad, new, Parisian-style Avenida Rio Branco forged a path from the inner city to Flamenco beach. Monuments to the nation’s grandeur like the art nouveau Biblioteca Nacional and the neo-classical Museu de Belas Artes stood side by side with glamorous cafés terrasses. The centerpiece of the Avenida was the magnificent Teatro Municipal, designed by the Mayor’s son, Francisco Oliveira Passos and modeled on the Paris Opera. A romantic sculpture in the Piazza told the story of a young country nurtured by the church and sheltered by the state. The new area of Rio Centro was the domain of Rio’s smart set - there to see and be seen. Later, Avenida Rio Branco lit up with neon, the city’s first cinemas opened their doors on silver screen dreams for a new smart set. Avenida Rio Branco became Cinelandia.
All this is still there, down in Cinelandia but its grandeur has faded. The mosaic pavements are dotted with broken tiles. The Teatro Municipal is shrouded in scaffolding while the Biblioteca Nacional and the Museu de Belas Artes are jaded. Most of the cinemas are now evangelical Christian churches, opening their doors on a new vision for a not so smart set. Rio’s dispossessed and homeless wait at the bus stops, but not for buses. Skinny kids play around the statue under the indifferent gaze of a stone priest. Still, Cinelandia is a Rio “must see”, a special glimpse of what it once was, what it has become and what it could be.
Avenida Rio Branco, Cinelandia
Cinelandia's statue
All this is still there, down in Cinelandia but its grandeur has faded. The mosaic pavements are dotted with broken tiles. The Teatro Municipal is shrouded in scaffolding while the Biblioteca Nacional and the Museu de Belas Artes are jaded. Most of the cinemas are now evangelical Christian churches, opening their doors on a new vision for a not so smart set. Rio’s dispossessed and homeless wait at the bus stops, but not for buses. Skinny kids play around the statue under the indifferent gaze of a stone priest. Still, Cinelandia is a Rio “must see”, a special glimpse of what it once was, what it has become and what it could be.
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