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Rio Centro, Part II; two churches

March 13th 2009 22:01
Just as important a part of Brasil’s early history as the Portuguese Crown was the Catholic Church. So houses of worship make up a large part of of Rio de Janeiro’s historical centre. Many of them are clustered around the Praca XV Novembre and the Paco Imperial.

Rio de Janeiro Rua Premeiro de Marco
Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo da Antiga Se



Diagonally opposite, on the corner of Rua 7 de Setembro and Rua Premeiro de Marco is the Igreja do Nossa Senhora do Carmo da Antigua Se, or Carmo Church. Its history is as closely linked to Brazil’s as the Praca and the Paco. The ashes of Pedro Alvarez Cabral, who discovered the country, lie in the main crypt. The Portuguese Royal family worshipped here. Princess Isabella was married here and the ceremony of the anointing of the Emperors Pedro I and Pedro II took place here. It was built in 1761 and the carved rococo interior was finished by master sculptor Inacio Ferreira Pinto. In its 250 year life, many Rio babies’ heads have been wet at the beautiful marble baptismal font, many young Carioca brides walked down the aisle under the magnificent painted ceiling to their groom, waiting at the silver ornamented altar.

Just off Rua Premeiro de Marco in Rua Ouvidor, is the Igreja Nossa Senhora da Lapa dos Mercadores. or the Church of Our Lady of the merchants. Built by the local congregation of street vendors, it is far more modest shrine than Nossa Senhora do Carmo da Antigua Se. Still, it is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful churches in Rio with its exquisite carved wooden ceilings and walls and its lovely skylight in the sacristy. Although the church saw no great royal occasions, it was however, touched by an important piece of Brasilian history and still today bears the mark. During the Naval revolt of 1893, cannon fire toppled the marble statue of the Madonna from the bell tower. The Madonna survived and was restored to the tower and the cannonball now rests in the sacristy.


These are just two of Rio Centro’s many religious houses. There are many other churches monasteries and convents, all with their own special beauty and interest, all with their own stories. .



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