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Rio Centro. Part I, Praca XV Novembre and the Paco Imperial

March 12th 2009 22:50
The people of Rio de Janeiro are sea creatures who head for the water whenever they have a spare moment. This probably explains why their beaches are ship shape and their city is not. On the weekend downtown Rio has the deserted, grubby look of a house whose occupants have said “To hell with housework, let’s go out and play!” Nevertheless, Centro is fascinating part of the city. There are many beautiful historical buildings, magnificent plazas with grand monuments and some quaint little streets.

Rio de Janeiro, Praca XV de Novembro
Praco XV de Novembro



Praca XV de Novembro is the seat of the old Portuguese Empire and is dotted with monuments and landmarks to its glory, like the Pyramid Fountain and the Statue of General Osario.

Rio de Janeiro, Paco Imperial
From the window of the Paco Imperial


Praca XV Novembre is also the site of the Paco Imperial or Imperial Palace. A simple old building of clean white stone with deep shadowed windows, it strikes a sharp contrast with the glaring glass towers which face it acoss Rua Primeiro de Marco. It was designed originally in 1703 as a warehouse, but was later converted to accommodate the National Mint. In 1743, it was transformed into a residence for Governors and Viceroys. When the Portuguese Royal family fled Europe, it became the Royal Palace of King Joao and the surrounding land became the Largo do Paco. A great deal of the history of Brazil was played out in this square. It was here that Princess Isabella signed the document which abolished slavery. It was the birthplace of the Brazilian Empire. Independence from Portugal was declared here 1889 and the Emperors Pedro I and Pedro II were crowned here. Lastly, its present name commemorates the day that Brazil became a Republic. Today the Imperial Palace is a Cultural Centre and the rambling halls and galleries now house exhibitions, like the current one on Burle Marx, the man who, between 1937 and 1994 landscaped most of Rio’s parks and gardens (and indeed most of Brazils) as well turning out a huge collection of drawings, paintings, sculptures and ceramics. The Imperial Palace also has a restaurant and a wonderful book/music store with a great little café tucked between the discs and the tomes.


Rio de Janeiro, Paco Imperial bookshop
The bookshop at the Paco Imperial




The Praca XV de Novembro is at its best during work hours when there are crowds around to bring it to life. During the weekend, it is rather bleak, lonely and uncomfortable.
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