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Newcastle-upon-Tyne in the blink of an eye

December 17th 2007 10:40
Coal, Geordies, ships, the River Tyne and hardy natives, known as Novacastrians, who brave glacial winter temperatures in t shirts – this was the extent of my knowledge of Newcastle until chance took me there a few weeks ago.

The Tyne Bridge Newcastle
The Tyne Bridge



Determined to make the most of the one day I had to explore, I began with the City Sightseeing Newcastle-Gateshead Hop On-Hop Off bus tour.

The Millenium Bridge, Newcastle-upon-Tyne
The Millenium Bridge


The tour is a overview and commentary on Newcastle as it is today – a city of contrasts, where old and new sit side by side, the juxtaposition of ultra-modern and ancient structures highlighting its long and still unfolding history. It takes in all those reminders of the past like the Roman city walls dating from 80AD, the Norman Castle Keep built by Robert Curthose, son of William the Conqueror, the houses of the Mediaeval Merchants, who grew rich on coal and ship-building and the opulent 19th century inner city area of Grainger Town, the neo-classical masterpiece of Richard Grainger which, now, discoloured by time, is like sepia-tinted print of ancient Rome.


Grainger Town Newcastle
Grainger Town


The bus also passes by St James Park, home of Newcastle United Football Club, with a history stretching back over a century, today a gleaming modern structure which seats over 53, 000. It crosses the river by the old Tyne bridge, giving spectacular views of the regenerated area along the banks with its stunning and innovative landmarks, like the gently pivoting Gateshead Millenium Bridge, the Baltic Centre for Contemporary Arts and the Sage Gateshead Music Centre which shines like a great geodesic dome in the light.

The Sage Gateshead Music Centre, Newcastle
The Sage Gateshead Music Centre


The City Sightseeing Gateshead Newcastle Hop-on Hop-off bus tour gave an excellent introduction to the city as well as a lively potted history. It was a good indication of the size and scope of the place (walkable!) It highlighted things worth a re-look. It was cheap (7 pounds per adult ticket valid for 24 hours) and it fitted perfectly (with hops on and off) into a morning, leaving the afternoon free for rambling at will, discovering hidden corners, exploring galleries and museums and perhaps even a few encounters with some hardy Novacastrians.
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