Carnaval 2009 in Rio
March 10th 2009 23:19
The Mayor of Rio de Janeiro, Eduardo Paes, described it in the Carnaval catalogue as the most spectacular show on earth. For me, the 2009 Carnaval, my first, was all of that and more. The size, the scale and the sound of it were literally incredible, the colour and creativity truly breathtaking, the organisation, simply amazing. For me, this was the show of a lifetime.
Between 3 and 5 thousand people take part in each samba school’s procession. Of all ages, of all races and from every corner of their communities, they represent the huge melting pot that is Brazil. There are administrators, resplendent in the colours of their school and teams of technicians in t-shirts. Countless “forca” push or pull floats carrying a vast cast of singers, dancers and acrobats. Conductors orchestrate a legion of different drums, whistles, shakers, rattles and shakers of the Batterie. “Directors” and “harmonia” keep the endless ranks of foot soldiers moving in time, on time and smoothly. These are the loyal school devotees who have practised for months, the tourists, taking the shuffle of a lifetime through the sambadrome, the sambistas, the carnival goddesses - plumed, be-jewelled, glittering and gorgeous, the bahianas - the whirling grandmothers in their sweeping skirts, the kids' contingent with their lightning feet and the flag bearers, picked from the neighbourhood’s ordinary youth and transformed, for the night, into princes and princesses.
Each school has a theme which ties the whole gigantic spectacle together. These are expressed through countless floats, each one a huge extravaganza with its own brilliant (and significant) show and through up to 55 different groups of characters and creatures, all pertinent to the theme and all in dazzling costumes which in some way underscore it. The school’s specially composed samba which accompanies the spectacle and provides its voice and its rhythm is another thread for the theme. So is much of the the choreography. Some themes are simple, like Salgueiro’s “tambor” or drum which looked at the instrument in its many forms across cultures, throughout history and of course as a cornerstone of Brazil's own samba. Others are deep and meaningful like Porto Pedro's "curiosity" which explored the outcomes of human curiosity, from pre-history to the present and included inventions ranging from the club to nuclear weapons. Others are local, like Vila Isabel’s history of Rio’s Municipal Theatre which took in the history of the building from its inaurguration to the current renovations, as well as the stars who have appeared there. Others, again, are universal, like Portela’s “love” which included every imaginable kind of devotion from birds billing and cooing to internet romances. And some are ingenious, like Beija Flor’s “water” which covered everything from the sea and its creatures to the bath-tub and its characters
This year the simple theme proved best. First place went to Salguiero. But ingenuity paid off too. Beija Flor came in 2nd. And clearly, the judges hearts were moved by Portela which took 3rd place. But the theme is is only a small element in the winning Carnaval formula. Competition is tough and every minute detail of the performance counts - the theme itself, the expression of the theme, floats, costumes, choreography, music - batterie, band, singers, animation, spontaneity, cohesion and I suppose the elusive x-factor. Then, last but not least there's the time factor; every school must complete the procession through the Sambadrome in no less than 65 and in no more than 80 minutes.
Carnival is not for the faint-hearted. Beginning at 9pm, when the first fireworks light the sky and the first drum beat sounds and ending at 6am, when the last officials samba through the g-string-framed, buttock-shaped exit arches of the Sambadrome, it’s an all-nighter on full alert - with eyes, ears, voice, hips and feet engaged at all times.
Nevertheless, after our night at the Desfiles de Segunda, (the Monday Parade and the second night of the competition) we were hooked. We'd formed our sllegiances. So when all of our schools made it into the top six, we simply had to go back the following Saturday for the Sabado Campeias.
Our Carnaval experience was organised by Tatiana of Blumar (www.blumar.com.br) It included transfers from our hotel, brilliant and very useful insights into the whole business of Carnaval from our guide Ricardo, second row seats in the frisas of Setor 9, the tourist sector and personal visits, with more insights and explanations, throughout the show from Tatiana and Junior. Muito obrigado to you all!
Salguiero's drums
Between 3 and 5 thousand people take part in each samba school’s procession. Of all ages, of all races and from every corner of their communities, they represent the huge melting pot that is Brazil. There are administrators, resplendent in the colours of their school and teams of technicians in t-shirts. Countless “forca” push or pull floats carrying a vast cast of singers, dancers and acrobats. Conductors orchestrate a legion of different drums, whistles, shakers, rattles and shakers of the Batterie. “Directors” and “harmonia” keep the endless ranks of foot soldiers moving in time, on time and smoothly. These are the loyal school devotees who have practised for months, the tourists, taking the shuffle of a lifetime through the sambadrome, the sambistas, the carnival goddesses - plumed, be-jewelled, glittering and gorgeous, the bahianas - the whirling grandmothers in their sweeping skirts, the kids' contingent with their lightning feet and the flag bearers, picked from the neighbourhood’s ordinary youth and transformed, for the night, into princes and princesses.
Prince and Princess of the flag
Each school has a theme which ties the whole gigantic spectacle together. These are expressed through countless floats, each one a huge extravaganza with its own brilliant (and significant) show and through up to 55 different groups of characters and creatures, all pertinent to the theme and all in dazzling costumes which in some way underscore it. The school’s specially composed samba which accompanies the spectacle and provides its voice and its rhythm is another thread for the theme. So is much of the the choreography. Some themes are simple, like Salgueiro’s “tambor” or drum which looked at the instrument in its many forms across cultures, throughout history and of course as a cornerstone of Brazil's own samba. Others are deep and meaningful like Porto Pedro's "curiosity" which explored the outcomes of human curiosity, from pre-history to the present and included inventions ranging from the club to nuclear weapons. Others are local, like Vila Isabel’s history of Rio’s Municipal Theatre which took in the history of the building from its inaurguration to the current renovations, as well as the stars who have appeared there. Others, again, are universal, like Portela’s “love” which included every imaginable kind of devotion from birds billing and cooing to internet romances. And some are ingenious, like Beija Flor’s “water” which covered everything from the sea and its creatures to the bath-tub and its characters
Salguiero's tambor
This year the simple theme proved best. First place went to Salguiero. But ingenuity paid off too. Beija Flor came in 2nd. And clearly, the judges hearts were moved by Portela which took 3rd place. But the theme is is only a small element in the winning Carnaval formula. Competition is tough and every minute detail of the performance counts - the theme itself, the expression of the theme, floats, costumes, choreography, music - batterie, band, singers, animation, spontaneity, cohesion and I suppose the elusive x-factor. Then, last but not least there's the time factor; every school must complete the procession through the Sambadrome in no less than 65 and in no more than 80 minutes.
A carnaval goddess
Carnival is not for the faint-hearted. Beginning at 9pm, when the first fireworks light the sky and the first drum beat sounds and ending at 6am, when the last officials samba through the g-string-framed, buttock-shaped exit arches of the Sambadrome, it’s an all-nighter on full alert - with eyes, ears, voice, hips and feet engaged at all times.
The exit arches of the Sambadrome
Nevertheless, after our night at the Desfiles de Segunda, (the Monday Parade and the second night of the competition) we were hooked. We'd formed our sllegiances. So when all of our schools made it into the top six, we simply had to go back the following Saturday for the Sabado Campeias.
Our Carnaval experience was organised by Tatiana of Blumar (www.blumar.com.br) It included transfers from our hotel, brilliant and very useful insights into the whole business of Carnaval from our guide Ricardo, second row seats in the frisas of Setor 9, the tourist sector and personal visits, with more insights and explanations, throughout the show from Tatiana and Junior. Muito obrigado to you all!
| 56 |
| Vote |
subscribe to this blog
