Shopping in Buenos Aires
June 29th 2011 08:34
In general, Portenos (the people of Buenos Aires) like to look their best. Needless to say then, this is a city with a wealth of great shopping options.
At the top of Buenos Aires’ hierarchy of shopping houses is the glamourous Patio Bullrich on Avenida del Libertador in the Retiro district. Once an auction house for livestock, its three floors now hold big name boutiques like Versace, Dior and Chanel as well as a food court with elegant eateries and coffee houses. This is the place to make those exquisite and unmentionably priced purchases or, simply to dream and watch others do so.
Much more accessible, slightly more affordable and just as beautiful, is Galerias Pacifico on busy Via Florida in Centro. When it opened, in 1889, the French style building, which occupied an entire block and offered endless shopping opportunities, was greatly celebrated. Unfortunately, an economic crisis in 1890 saw it sold off for offices to the Argentine railway company, Ferrocarril Pacifico (hence the name) and it was to be over 100 years before it fulfilled its original destiny.
In the Peron era, when the railways fell into the hands of the state, so did Galerias Pacifico. In 1945, the Nuevo realism/ social-activist muralists Antonio Bern, Juan Carlos Castiagnino, Manuel Colmeiro, Lino Spilimbergo and Demetrio Urruchia were commissioned to decorate its vaulted ceilings and cupola. Despite this grand public art project, the building languished without a purpose and was finally abandoned.
But in 1992, Galerias Pacifico was rediscovered, restored (by a joint Argentine/ Mexican enterprise) and re-launched as one of Buenos Aires premier shopping centres. All the big brand names are represented - Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfigger et al – but there are also some great boutiques, homewares and local art and craft boutiques selling all kinds of unusual treasures. There is also a great food court and then of course there are those beautiful murals all around and above.
Outside Galerias Pacifico a very different, but absolutely not to be missed Buenos Aires shopping experience awaits. Narrow, crowded and pulsing with noise and colour, the pedestrian precinct of Via Florida offers everything. Both sides of the pedestrian street are lined with shops; global chains, like C & S and local names like the popular Argentine outdoor clothing store Montagne, leading B.A. bookseller Ateneo and the fabulous Darcos, the specialists in tango shoes and costumes. Itinerant street vendors demonstrate all kinds of weird and wonderful stuff – like the tomate loco, or crazy tomato. Fashioned from some indefinable, horrible to the touch material, it splats, sticks and spreads when thrown at walls or pavements, then assuming a life of its own it reforms as a tomato. Its cousin the uove loco, or crazy egg, is no less ghastly.
The centre of Via Florida is given over, especially on the weekends, to street stalls or blankets spread with tango hats, Indian rugs, bags, blankets, jumpers, jewellery, art, ceramics and souvenirs. Any clear space on a weekend is seized by troupes of tango dancers.
It’s hard to look past Via Florida – but do. There’s a wealth of other fascinating shopping to be had in Buenos Aires. Nearby San Telmo offers antiques, vintage and more local crafts by the mile, with equally interesting street life (Travelstripe’s San Telmo blog) If it’s avant-garde Argentine designer gear and chic furniture you’re after, then head down to Palermo. As it’s a mecca for the uber fashion conscious, it’s great for people watching too.
Life on Florida
Much more accessible, slightly more affordable and just as beautiful, is Galerias Pacifico on busy Via Florida in Centro. When it opened, in 1889, the French style building, which occupied an entire block and offered endless shopping opportunities, was greatly celebrated. Unfortunately, an economic crisis in 1890 saw it sold off for offices to the Argentine railway company, Ferrocarril Pacifico (hence the name) and it was to be over 100 years before it fulfilled its original destiny.
In the Peron era, when the railways fell into the hands of the state, so did Galerias Pacifico. In 1945, the Nuevo realism/ social-activist muralists Antonio Bern, Juan Carlos Castiagnino, Manuel Colmeiro, Lino Spilimbergo and Demetrio Urruchia were commissioned to decorate its vaulted ceilings and cupola. Despite this grand public art project, the building languished without a purpose and was finally abandoned.
But in 1992, Galerias Pacifico was rediscovered, restored (by a joint Argentine/ Mexican enterprise) and re-launched as one of Buenos Aires premier shopping centres. All the big brand names are represented - Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfigger et al – but there are also some great boutiques, homewares and local art and craft boutiques selling all kinds of unusual treasures. There is also a great food court and then of course there are those beautiful murals all around and above.
Outside Galerias Pacifico a very different, but absolutely not to be missed Buenos Aires shopping experience awaits. Narrow, crowded and pulsing with noise and colour, the pedestrian precinct of Via Florida offers everything. Both sides of the pedestrian street are lined with shops; global chains, like C & S and local names like the popular Argentine outdoor clothing store Montagne, leading B.A. bookseller Ateneo and the fabulous Darcos, the specialists in tango shoes and costumes. Itinerant street vendors demonstrate all kinds of weird and wonderful stuff – like the tomate loco, or crazy tomato. Fashioned from some indefinable, horrible to the touch material, it splats, sticks and spreads when thrown at walls or pavements, then assuming a life of its own it reforms as a tomato. Its cousin the uove loco, or crazy egg, is no less ghastly.
The centre of Via Florida is given over, especially on the weekends, to street stalls or blankets spread with tango hats, Indian rugs, bags, blankets, jumpers, jewellery, art, ceramics and souvenirs. Any clear space on a weekend is seized by troupes of tango dancers.
It’s hard to look past Via Florida – but do. There’s a wealth of other fascinating shopping to be had in Buenos Aires. Nearby San Telmo offers antiques, vintage and more local crafts by the mile, with equally interesting street life (Travelstripe’s San Telmo blog) If it’s avant-garde Argentine designer gear and chic furniture you’re after, then head down to Palermo. As it’s a mecca for the uber fashion conscious, it’s great for people watching too.
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