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Travel Stripe - April 2011

When Juan de Garay drew up the plans for Buenos Aires in 1580, he placed the large Plaza de Fuerte or Square of the Fortress at its centre. Following the dictates of Spanish law, it comprised a church, a public meeting place, a marketplace and civic buildings. It was the hub and the heart of the new city.

The Plaza’s name has changed a number of times over the centuries. Plaza de Fuerte gave way to Plaza del Mercado, then in 1807 it became Plaza de la Victoria to mark the country’s victory over the invading British and finally, when Argentina shook off Spanish rule on May 25, 1810, it became Plaza de Mayo.


Plaza de Mayo. Buenos Aires
A peaceful corner of Plaza de Mayo


Despite the changes in name and the inevitable changes in the shape and size of city, Plaza de Mayo is still very much the heart of Buenos Aires. It lies at the meeting point of two major roads – Roque Saenz Pena and Avenida Rivadavia. It is home to some of Argentina’s most important and famous buildings, such as the legendary Casa Roseda, or Pink House.

Plaza de Mayo has been and still is, the scene of Argentina’s most significant historical and political moments. Over the centuries crowds have rallied here for both the highs and the lows of the country’s checkered history.

Finally, the Plaza is a focal point for protests and demonstrations. Most start and or end here. Argentines are passionate and vocal protesters. Their history has given them a gret deal to be passionate and vocal about. When I passed through two years ago, the War Veterans were encamped in one corner, They looked as if they had been there for some time already and they looked as if they would be there for some time to come. The most poignant and affecting demonstration takes place every Thursday at 3.30 pm when a group of mothers turns up to protest and mourn the still unexplained disappearance of their children during the Military Regime of 1976 to 1983. They call themselves Los Madres de la Plaza de Mayo.

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From the giant stone horseman in the Plaza San Martin, to the towering monolith on the Avenida 9 de Julio, to the bold grinning mannequins at the windows of the convertillos of Caminito, Buenos Aires is a city rich in public art.

Floralis Generica, Buenos Aires
Floralis Generica by day


One of B.A's, if not the world’s, most unusual and memorable sculptures is the Floralis Genérica, in the centre of the Plaza Naciones Unidas, just next to the Museo de Belles Artes,

Designed by architect Eduardo Catalano, it was installed in 2002, a year after the disastrous crash of 2001. As there was little in the public purse at the time, the work was funded entirely by Catalano himself.

Shaped like a giant flower, the sculpture has 20metre high steel and aluminium petals which open at dawn and close at dusk. By night it glows with warm red lights. Perhaps, In the dark days of 2001, Floralis Generica seemed a symbol of hope to the people who passed it every day on their way to join the endless queues at the banks - a promise that Argentina would blossom again!.
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Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires

April 2nd 2011 09:39
Built on the old docklands, Puerrto Madero is Buenos Aires’ newest and trendiest Barrio. It’s an amazing mix of beautifully restored old buildings and fabulous modern developments. “Re-dressed” warehouses are home to ritzy loft apartments, chic bars, gourmet restaurants and smart offices. Luxury high-rise condos hover above them.

Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Puerto Madero and the Puente de la Muger


Some of the world’s leading designers and architects have left their mark here. Phillippe Starck has woven his magic on the boutique Faena Hotel and Universe. The state of the art Museo Foratabat, which houses the treasures of Argentine socialite Amalia Fortabat, is the work of Rafael Vifioly. But undoubtedly the most impressive piece of architecture and engineering here is the Puente de la Mujer. Designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, the 160 metre pedestrian bridge, most fittingly for the city which gave birth to thelegendary dance, represents a tango dancing couple.

One modern phenomenon you won’t encounter down at Puerto Madero is traffic. Most of the area is reserved for pedestrians. Cobblestoned paths lead along the waterfront and between the high rise buildings. On the most easterly edge, on the banks of the mighty Rio Plata, lies one of Buenos Aires most peaceful places. The Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur is a rambling wetlands of reedy lagoons threaded with gravel paths and rich with wildlife.

Puerto Madeno is named after Eduardo Madero, who was the brains and indeed the pesos, behind the transformation of the muddy wasteland, on Buenos Aires’ eastern edge, into a harbour to accommodate Argentina’s burgeoning trade. Begun in the mid 19th century, the project was dogged by difficulties, including financial problems and accusations of corruption. It was finally competed in 1898 but by 1910, the docks were already inadequate. Trade moved away to new ports at La Boca and Retiro and Puerto Madero languished.

Today Puerto Madero is back and it’s thriving. It’s one of Buenos Aires most popular precincts both as a place to live and as a place to play.
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