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Travel Stripe - October 2010

Bella Vista

October 31st 2010 23:38
Nestled in the lee of San Cristobel Hill, Bella Vista looks down across the river to the city of Santiago beyond. It's from this sweeping panorama, one of the city's best, that the name of this charming enclave derives, for Bella Vista, in Spanish is simply, beautiful view.

Bella Vista, Santiago
A street in Bella Vista



Bella Vista is a place apart and not just by virtue of its position. Its low, brightly painted buildings and small sunny squares are in sharp contrast to the neo-classical stone grandeur, towering concrete and vast plazas downtown.

Bella Vista, Santiago
La Chascona, Bella Vista


Bella Vista is a place of artists and artisans. It was here that the poet Pablo Neruda made his home in the beautiful La Chascona, which is today a museum and monument to his life and work. The haunting music of the Andes echoes through streets redolent of rustic Chilean fare and lined with theatres, cafes, restaurants and tavernas. It’s a lively, yet laidback, slow-paced place.


Most mportantly, Bella Vista is the heartland of the rare blue-green stone, found only in Chile and Afghanistan – Lapislazuli. Here, in dozens of tiny workshops, craftsmen shape, fashion and set this semi-precious jewel into exquisite and unusual, yet very reasonably priced pieces.

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Mercado Central, Santiago

October 23rd 2010 07:25
After the incredible rescue of thirty three trapped men from the San Jose mine in Chile’s Northern Atacama Desert, President Sebastien Pinera voiced his hope that the country might now be known to the world for something other than a Coup d’État.

It almost certainly should. The picture of determination, solidarity and hope seen in the last three months should certainly help to change an image of Chile as rather uneasy place, coloured by the ousting of Allende and the dark Pinochet days which followed. Perhaps now the modest flow of tourists will swell and many more will enjoy Chile’s brilliant blue skies, its dramatic landscape, its warm and welcoming people, its fabulous pisco sours and its fascinating capital city, Santiago.

Santiago Mercado Central
Mercado Central, Santiago


If its mix of cultures makes Santiago one of the most colourful and interesting cities in South America, its stunning old French and Italian neoclassical buildings make it one of the most beautiful.

Constructed as part of the remodelling of Santiago towards the end of the 19th century, the Mercado Central, on Puente Street, reflects the wealth generated by the nitrate boom in Chile at this time. The turreted, towered, neo-classical building with its vaulted ceilings and grand entrances was originally intended as an exhibition building for local artists. However in 1872, President Frederico Errazurriz Zanartu decided that it would be Santiago’s Central Market, and so it has been ever since.

Today, the Mercado Central is a landmark in the city. It flourishes as a fresh food market which showcases Chilean seafood and traditional Chilean fare like seafood stews and Conger Eel Broth.

But more fascinating even than the food at the Mercado Central are its people; the vendors spruiking their fare, the housewives haggling, the kids looking longingly, the old, the young, the rich, the poor, the wide-eyed tourists and the myriad, endlessly different faces of Chile.

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