Oases of Civilisation in the Waitakere Wilderness
July 22nd 2010 07:44
For all its wild, deserted coastline and its vast, untamed and uninterrupted bush, the Waitakere Ranges Regional Park has some picturesque and equally appealing oases of civilsation.
Firstly, there’s Titirangi. Once a service town for the farmers and bushmen who worked in the region in the early days, for over half a century it has been an enclave for artists, craftspeople, writers and musicians. It is a pretty little village, with lovely and beautifully restored old buildings, from quaint colonial to sleek art deco. Nestled deep in the bush between the hills, in a truly inspirational setting and blessed nowadays with some great cafes, restaurants and shops, it’s a welcome haven after a bracing day out in the bush or on the beach.
Then there’s the Arataki Visitor Centre. Arataki means pathway to learning. At the centre visitors of every age can learn the story of Te Wao Nui o Tiriwa and Te Kawarau o Maki, the tangata whenua, or original people of the area. They can learn about the park’s flora and fauna, about its history and its future. Here Park staff offer help planning tours of the region and advice on how to get the best out of all it has to offer, safely. Designed by the local, Karekare architect, Harry Turbott, the building is a fine example of a modern, truly bi-cultural New Zealand architecture. It features a large pou (post) at the entrance and stunning interior whakairo (carvings). Fashioned out of two giant kauri from the surrounding forest, they depict the ancestors of Te Kawarau o Maki. The sweeping decks on the outside of the building offer panoramic views over the park and a great vantage point from which the less intrepid and capable can enjoy its vast and rugged splendor.
Finally, there’s Elevation. Hidden just under the brow of one of the Waitakere’s highest hills and 361 metres above sea level, this restaurant is worth visiting for the view alone. Look back and you take in the city of sails from one side to the other and the Auckland region from coast to coast. Look ahead and you take in forest as far as the eye can see. It’s breathtaking. However, the stunning views in no way outshine Elevation’s delicious cuisine.
We’re looking for a traditional Kiwi lunch and finally, after lengthy deliberations on the fish and chips and the pie, we order both. They’re brilliant choices but neither are fish and chips or pies as we know them. The blue-nose fillets are dressed in a tempura batter and served up with melt-in-the-mouth chips in individual baskets, while the pie is a golden-brown sculpted pastry masterpiece which looks too good to eat but then tastes even better than it looks!
Tour, stories and free lunch (yes ther is such a thing!) courtesy of TIME Unlimited (www.newzealandtours.travel)
Not fish and chips as we know them at Elevation Restaurant
The Pou at the Arataki Visitor Centre
Firstly, there’s Titirangi. Once a service town for the farmers and bushmen who worked in the region in the early days, for over half a century it has been an enclave for artists, craftspeople, writers and musicians. It is a pretty little village, with lovely and beautifully restored old buildings, from quaint colonial to sleek art deco. Nestled deep in the bush between the hills, in a truly inspirational setting and blessed nowadays with some great cafes, restaurants and shops, it’s a welcome haven after a bracing day out in the bush or on the beach.
Then there’s the Arataki Visitor Centre. Arataki means pathway to learning. At the centre visitors of every age can learn the story of Te Wao Nui o Tiriwa and Te Kawarau o Maki, the tangata whenua, or original people of the area. They can learn about the park’s flora and fauna, about its history and its future. Here Park staff offer help planning tours of the region and advice on how to get the best out of all it has to offer, safely. Designed by the local, Karekare architect, Harry Turbott, the building is a fine example of a modern, truly bi-cultural New Zealand architecture. It features a large pou (post) at the entrance and stunning interior whakairo (carvings). Fashioned out of two giant kauri from the surrounding forest, they depict the ancestors of Te Kawarau o Maki. The sweeping decks on the outside of the building offer panoramic views over the park and a great vantage point from which the less intrepid and capable can enjoy its vast and rugged splendor.
Finally, there’s Elevation. Hidden just under the brow of one of the Waitakere’s highest hills and 361 metres above sea level, this restaurant is worth visiting for the view alone. Look back and you take in the city of sails from one side to the other and the Auckland region from coast to coast. Look ahead and you take in forest as far as the eye can see. It’s breathtaking. However, the stunning views in no way outshine Elevation’s delicious cuisine.
We’re looking for a traditional Kiwi lunch and finally, after lengthy deliberations on the fish and chips and the pie, we order both. They’re brilliant choices but neither are fish and chips or pies as we know them. The blue-nose fillets are dressed in a tempura batter and served up with melt-in-the-mouth chips in individual baskets, while the pie is a golden-brown sculpted pastry masterpiece which looks too good to eat but then tastes even better than it looks!
Tour, stories and free lunch (yes ther is such a thing!) courtesy of TIME Unlimited (www.newzealandtours.travel)
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