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Travel Stripe - May 2010

Maungakiekie, or One Tree Hill, which sits in the beautiful, green acreage of Cornwall Park, is probably the most interesting of Auckland’s 48 crater mountains.

Rangitoto, Auckland, New Zealand
Rangitoto, Island of the blood red sky from One Tree Hill



Until about 30 years ago it was instantly recognizable against the city skyline, for the lone pine that stood on its summit. Then, in the 1970s, the tree fell to the axe of Maori activist Mike Smith. It was a gesture which echoed his ancestor Hone Heke’s attack, on the flagpole which flew the Union Jack in the old colonial capital of Korareka, almost a century and half before. The tree was never replaced but its stump remains, as a reminder, and a symbol, of an era of protest which pushed Aotearoa New Zealand to re-examine, and begin to redress, the breaches of its founding document, the Treaty Waitangi.

John Logan Campbell Memorial One Tree Hill Auckland
The plaque at the foot of the John Logan Campbell Memorial



More impressive than the pine tree ever was, and probably impervious to the axe too, the John Logan Campbell memorial commemorates the man who bequeathed Maungakiekie and the land that surrounds it to the people of Auckland. At the foot of a tall plinth is a plaque to Logan Campbell. Above it stands a Maori chief in a traditional korowai or cloak. The monument is an enduring symbol of the enormous mutual respect of Logan Campbell and the Maori people and of the partnership between Maori and Pakeha.

Since ancient times, Maori have gathered on Maungakiekie to welcome the Matariki or the Pleiades which appear in the sky in mid-winter, signaling the New Year in the Maramatanga or Maori calendar. Nowadays, the Matariki draws both Maori and Pakeha New Zealanders together for this unique celebration.

Maungakiekie’s fame was taken to the world by the poignant U2 song, written to commemorate the death of a Maori member of their crew. U2 fans and many U2 fans who visit Auckland make a pilgrimage to One Tree Hill to look out across the sea to Rangitoto, the volcanic island, named blood red sky.

Tour and stories courtesy of TIME Unlimited



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Every great city has its high point. There are towers, like the Eiffel of Paris or Dubai’s Burj. There are tall buildings, like New York’s Empire State or Melbourne’s Europa. Then there are mountains like Rio’s Corcorvado or Capetown’s Table. New Zealand’s Tamaki Makaurau-Auckland boasts two high points – the giant syringe, known as the Sky Tower and Maunga Whau, or Mount Eden.


Maunga Whau Mount Eden Auckland New Zealand
Maunga Whau, from the top


The tallest of Tamaki Makaurau’s 48 extinct volcanoes, Maunga Whau offers a 360 view of the region, from east to west coast, over the sea to north, away across the plains to the south and all around its 47 sister cones. Terraces on its slopes mark the site of the Pa or fortified village which stood here in ancient times. As enemies could be seen approaching from great distances and from any direction it was virtually unassailable. Consequently, the Tangata Whenua, or people of the land here enjoyed a position of some superiority and power.

Whau in Te Reo Maori, or the Maori language means tree or wood and Maunga Whau is home to some magnificent pohtukawa and totara tree which probably date back to the time of our Maori ancestors.

Today Maunga Whau belongs to all the people of Aotearoa New Zealand. They jog, cycle, tramp, stroll, picnic, celebrate, take time out and sell crafts and souvenirs here. Messages of love and proposals of marriage are spelt out in volcanic stones, in the clearings between clumps of flax and stands of trees on the grassy, undulating terraces. The lower slopes are given over to farming and sheep graze in lush green paddocks.

Just below Maunga Whau is the port, named Te Herenga Waka or the mooring place of canoes, by the Tangata Whenua, because of the hosts waka or canoes that anchored on their voyages up and down the islands of Aotearoa. Now giant cruise ships lie at anchor in Te Herenga Waka. Out beyond it on Auckland’s twin harbours, the Manukau and the Waitemata, some 135 yachts and launches ply the waves. Today, Auckland, as well as the mooring place of the canoes, is also the “city of sails”. 60,500 of the country's 149,900 registered yachtsmen come from the Auckland Region and its Westhaven Marina is the largest in the Southern Hemisphere.

Even if they’re not boaties, Aucklanders are sea creatures. They head for the water at every spare moment. Most inner city suburbs have their beach or their bay and no point in greater Auckland is more than thirty minutes from the sea. You can walk from one side of the city to the other, without once losing sight of it. From Maunga Whau, the two harbours, Manukau to the West and Waitemata to the East, seem to wrap like blue silk around the green, hilly landscape.

Green spaces and trees are closely kept here in Auckland. And away from Maunga Whau on all sides roll houses in squares of garden, with lawns and trees. The lush acres and spreading trees of the Auckland Domain press in against the city on one side. The sea wraps around the others. The CBD is small with modest towers and high rise. Only the Sky Tower rises up to jab the clouds like a huge hypodermic needle. But the architectural standout in the Auckland landscape, from any point, but especially from Maunga Whau, is the War Memorial Museum which sits in the domain on the edge of her smallest sister crater.

Tour courtesy of Time Unlimited (www.newzealandtours.travel)



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Leaving Tekapo in the high country of New Zealand's South Island, we follow the road across a vast plateau. A few lonely mail boxes mark off huge farms and long driveways lead away to houses hidden somewhere way off in the distance. We skirt Lake Pukaki and cross the bright blue canal that spills from it. We pass through the hydro town of Twizel, through Omarama and Otematata and through wide valleys, where giant irrigation machines march across the paddocks like strange extra-terrestrial beings.

Benmore Dam, New Zealand
Benmore Dam


We head on through the Waitaki Valley, following the river down its course of dams and lakes and channels. Little more than half a century ago, it flowed freely down from the mountains, carving its way through farmland and bush. But then in the 1960s, the Waitaki Hydro Project harnessed the river’s power and transformed the landscape forever. Perhaps those who lost their land lamented it. Perhaps there were protests. I don’t recall. I do however recall, and in fact it comes back to haunt me quite regularly, the song that emerged from the project with the unforgettable lines....

“Roll on again Waitaki on your journey to the sea
Bringing power to all New Zealand
Better life for folks like me”

At the time of construction Benmore was the largest earth dam ever built. We drive to the top to marvel at the massive concrete spillway and the huge turbines. Even with these great, grey cement intruders, it’s a beautiful scene. The top dam is a deep, still turquoise pool where a houseboat floats idly in the shelter of an overhanging willow. Below, the unbelievably blue Lake Benmore laps gently at a sandy beach shaded by trees and ringed with sheltered grassy picnic spots.

Lake Benmore, New Zealand
Lake Benmore



The autumn sun is hot. The lake sparkles seductively. We have to swim. The icy water is at first a terrible shock, but soon it’s tolerable and finally, from the safe warm boards of the diving platform just offshore, it’s superb.
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On either side of the car, endless, flat stretches of dun coloured tussock fade into banks of mist. Somewhere out there, are the mountains, but this autumn afternoon they’re lost in the rain clouds which wrap around us like a thick quilt. There’s nothing here – not a tree, not a house, not a single animal, not one other car – just us, heading in a straight, undulating line across the vast, dark landscape. There’s nothing here but earth and sky.

Lake Tekapo, New Zealand
Lake Tekapo

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In 1855 James Mackenzie stole 1000 sheep from a Timaru station and led them away to graze on the rugged slopes of the Southern Alps. The station owner and two Maori trackers followed him and discovered his secret pastures. Over the next decade other graziers followed the Mackenzie trail into the mountains and around 1865, the settlement of Fairlie Creek was estabished. In 1884, the New Zealand locomotive legend, the Fairlie Flyer, launched a rail service that was to run between the port of Timaru and the town, now known simply as Fairlie, until 1968.

The Mackenzie Country, New Zealand
Heading into the Mackenzie Country

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It’s a crisp, sunny autumn morning and Orana Park, New Zealand’s only free range zoo, just outside Christchurch, is busy with holiday visitors. Still we strike off down a path which takes us into empty territory.

Orana Wildlife Park, Christchurch
The wide open spaces of Orana Park

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Strapped into harnesses, Matthew and Otis grope for toeholds on a sheer, 7 metre wall, then swing out and bounce their way back down.

Science Alive, Christchurch, New Zealand
The Climbing Wall at Science Alive

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Located at the foot of the Port Hills, on the site, initially, of an ancient Maori hunting ground and later, of Zealand’s first public railway, Ferrymead Heritage Park includes two traditional Maori villages, the model town of Moorhouse (old Christchurch from colonial times to the 1920s) as well as a transport and technology museum.

Ferrymead Heritage Park, Christchurch, New Zealand
The main street of Moorhouse

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There are several routes over the rugged hills to the Port of Lyttleton just outside Christchurch in New Zealand. You can zigzag, on foot or on horseback, up the Bridle Path tramped into the tussock by the early settlers 150 years ago. You can cut straight through the centre, via the Lyttleton tunnel. You can zoom around a hundred hairpin bends on the spectacular summit road. Or like us, you take the Gondola and swing straight up a sheer cliff face in a glass bubble on a slim wire cable.

The Port Hills, Christchurch
the view from the top

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In the city that is more English than England, cruising down the Avon River, through the leafy acres of Hagley Park, is a must for any visitor.

The Avon River Christchurch
Looking downstream on the Avon

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Once it was a thriving railway town, a busy stop on the way from Timaru to the fabled Mackenzie country, the secret pastures high in the mountains, where the notorious outlaw led his stolen flocks beyond the reach of the long arm of the law. But now, most of the time, Pleasant Point (so named because it was a pleasant resting point on the hard slog into the highlands) is as still as painted town.

Pleasant Point, New Zealand
Main Street, Pleasant Point

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