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Travel Stripe - March 2010

The Grosvenor Hotel, in Timaru, New Zealand is one of town’s biggest, oldest and most impressive buildings.

The Grosvenor Hotel, Timaru
The Grosvenor


It holds a special place in history and not just in local history either. It hosted the newly wed Princess Elizabeth and the Duke of Edinburgh on their first royal tour and proudly boasts (in large white letters on a bold black screen in the lobby) that the “Prince of Wales was conceived here”



The Grosvenor Hotel Timaru
The Grosvenor holds a special place in history


At present the Grosvenor is mid-stride in a great leap forward. It has a toehold still in the time of that auspicious tour, so there’s a creaking vintage lift (the kind with a grill and peepholes) and a broad staircase with dark red, regal, fifties carpet. But our suite upstairs and the bars below have their feet firmly in the light, space, convenience and indulgence of the 21st century. There’s a vast, reconfigurable functions area and a gaming room full of pinging pokies. Still there’s a nod to good old Kiwi ingenuity in the Number 8 Wired Bar and another to quaint colonial NZ in the wood floors and stone hearths of the Grosvenor Bar.


Legendary Kiwi hospitality is alive and well at the Grosvenor too. It's late when we arrive but that's not a problem for the concierge. He's expecting us. It's close to midnight, the band is packing up and the kitchen is closed by the time we make it down to the Grosvenor Bar. However that’s “not a problem” for the chef. He whips up the roast of the day in a jiffy. Nor is it a problem for the barmaid to put aside her end of night clean up and pour drinks to go with it.

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There is little to disturb the Saturday morning serenity on the main street of Timaru, New Zealand. It's Waitangi day, the national holiday. Most of the shops are closed. A few cars sit patiently at the lights. A familiy browses quietly in a shop window. A young couples strolls into a side-street.

Timaru, New Zealand
Stafford Street Timaru


Today, we are told, most Timaruvians are at Hospice South Canterbury’s 2010 Wine and Food Festival.

Timaru, New Zealand
The South Canterbury wine and food festival


Indeed here we find them, in a dell ringed by tall native trees, between two ponds in the stunning Timaru Botanic Gardens; Grans, Grand-dads, Mums, Dans and kids, the whole community is here, at picnic tables, under sun umbrellas, sprawled on the grass in front of the stage, browsing, tippling or nibbling at the stalls.

South Canterbury Wine and Food Festival
The Whitebait Wagon at the South Canterbury wine and food festival


Run by the Hospice South Canterbury, the festival is one of the region's premier events. It attracts producers from all over South Canterbury, foodies and wine buffs from all over New Zealand and even a few international wine and food and writers. (Watch for it in the next Gourmet Traveller!)

South Canterbury wine and food festival
Organic strawberries and cream at the South Canterbury wine and food festival.


Nostalgic Kiwi fare, like whitebait sandwiches in paper serviettes, is served up alongside 100% pure NZ organics, like strawberries and cream in biodegradable bowls. Mums sizzle sausages for St Joseph’s School, while rising Michelin stars show off their skills for Aoraki Polytech’s chef school. There is international cuisine; crepes and curries, panini and pad Thai, souvlaki and sushi. There are world class wines from local vineyards. Places once synonymous with sheep and stone fruits, like Opihi and Kurow, now speak of Pinot Gris and Chardonnay.

South Canterbury Wine and Food Festival
Opihi Vineyard, at the South Canterbury Wine and food Festival


Exquisite local crafts are on display and up for sale - jewellery, ceramics and clothes. Local musicians entertain, like stunning new voice Kate Stevenson, runner up in the local Caroline Bay Talent Quest. The Gazebo is a gallery of local art and poetry.

Great wine, good food, sweet song and fine art, in a lush indigenous garden – at two in the afternoon, it’s an idyll of modern civilisation. It's a slice of Kiwi heaven.

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