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Travel Stripe - August 2009

Pao de Acucar, Rio de Janeiro

August 20th 2009 06:10
In a landscape studded with steep, spectacular peaks, Pao de Acucar, or Sugar Loaf, at the entrance to Rio de Janeiro’s Guanbara Bay, is one of the most imposing. Although it was discovered and named by the Portuguese in 1500, it was not conquered until 1917, when a crazy-brave English woman scaled the sheer granite face and planted the Union Jack on the summit.

Rio De Janeiro Sugar Loaf
Pao de Acucar or Sugar Loaf



Today, a cable car swings tourists by the tens of thousands up to the top of Pao d’Acucar. If not, I would most certainly not have enjoyed its unforgettable walks and views.
It’s a thrilling but not too terrifying two-stage trip up in the state of the art Swiss-made bubbles which give panoramic vistas from top, bottom and all sides of treetops, sky city and sea.

Rio de Janeiro, Sugar Loaf
The view from the cable car ascending Morro da Urca


The first stop is at 734 feet high Morro da Urca, or Urca Hill, which stands just in front of Sugar Loaf. Here, we strolled along paths lined with native bush, enjoyed the views from a number of lookout platforms, sat in the amphitheatre, and had a coffee in the café while bracing ourselves for the next stage – the assault on Sugar Loaf.


Rio de Janeiro, Sugar Loaf
The view from Sugar Loaf


In another glass capsule we hurtled across a divide of dense treetops, towards the vertical rock mountainside. Up close, it is pitted and grainy. Sunlight glitters on its surface like a sprinkling of sugar and I could see that it was texture, as much as shape, that inspired the first Portuguese to name it Pao d’Acucar.

Rio de Janeiro, Sugar Loaf
The view from Sugar Loaf


The view from the top of this rock 1,320 foot rock is breathtaking, humbling even. The whole of Rio fans out on one side. On another, the Atlantic Ocean sweeps away from miles of golden beaches and melts into the horizon. Guanabara Bay lies below, as still as a pond. On the neighbouring peak, Cristo Redentor stands with his arms outstretched against the sky.


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