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Travel Stripe - March 2009

Rio Centro, Part II; two churches

March 13th 2009 22:01
Just as important a part of Brasil’s early history as the Portuguese Crown was the Catholic Church. So houses of worship make up a large part of of Rio de Janeiro’s historical centre. Many of them are clustered around the Praca XV Novembre and the Paco Imperial.

Rio de Janeiro Rua Premeiro de Marco
Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo da Antiga Se



Diagonally opposite, on the corner of Rua 7 de Setembro and Rua Premeiro de Marco is the Igreja do Nossa Senhora do Carmo da Antigua Se, or Carmo Church. Its history is as closely linked to Brazil’s as the Praca and the Paco. The ashes of Pedro Alvarez Cabral, who discovered the country, lie in the main crypt. The Portuguese Royal family worshipped here. Princess Isabella was married here and the ceremony of the anointing of the Emperors Pedro I and Pedro II took place here. It was built in 1761 and the carved rococo interior was finished by master sculptor Inacio Ferreira Pinto. In its 250 year life, many Rio babies’ heads have been wet at the beautiful marble baptismal font, many young Carioca brides walked down the aisle under the magnificent painted ceiling to their groom, waiting at the silver ornamented altar.

Just off Rua Premeiro de Marco in Rua Ouvidor, is the Igreja Nossa Senhora da Lapa dos Mercadores. or the Church of Our Lady of the merchants. Built by the local congregation of street vendors, it is far more modest shrine than Nossa Senhora do Carmo da Antigua Se. Still, it is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful churches in Rio with its exquisite carved wooden ceilings and walls and its lovely skylight in the sacristy. Although the church saw no great royal occasions, it was however, touched by an important piece of Brasilian history and still today bears the mark. During the Naval revolt of 1893, cannon fire toppled the marble statue of the Madonna from the bell tower. The Madonna survived and was restored to the tower and the cannonball now rests in the sacristy.


These are just two of Rio Centro’s many religious houses. There are many other churches monasteries and convents, all with their own special beauty and interest, all with their own stories. .



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The people of Rio de Janeiro are sea creatures who head for the water whenever they have a spare moment. This probably explains why their beaches are ship shape and their city is not. On the weekend downtown Rio has the deserted, grubby look of a house whose occupants have said “To hell with housework, let’s go out and play!” Nevertheless, Centro is fascinating part of the city. There are many beautiful historical buildings, magnificent plazas with grand monuments and some quaint little streets.

Rio de Janeiro, Praca XV de Novembro
Praco XV de Novembro


Praca XV de Novembro is the seat of the old Portuguese Empire and is dotted with monuments and landmarks to its glory, like the Pyramid Fountain and the Statue of General Osario.

Rio de Janeiro, Paco Imperial
From the window of the Paco Imperial


Praca XV Novembre is also the site of the Paco Imperial or Imperial Palace. A simple old building of clean white stone with deep shadowed windows, it strikes a sharp contrast with the glaring glass towers which face it acoss Rua Primeiro de Marco. It was designed originally in 1703 as a warehouse, but was later converted to accommodate the National Mint. In 1743, it was transformed into a residence for Governors and Viceroys. When the Portuguese Royal family fled Europe, it became the Royal Palace of King Joao and the surrounding land became the Largo do Paco. A great deal of the history of Brazil was played out in this square. It was here that Princess Isabella signed the document which abolished slavery. It was the birthplace of the Brazilian Empire. Independence from Portugal was declared here 1889 and the Emperors Pedro I and Pedro II were crowned here. Lastly, its present name commemorates the day that Brazil became a Republic. Today the Imperial Palace is a Cultural Centre and the rambling halls and galleries now house exhibitions, like the current one on Burle Marx, the man who, between 1937 and 1994 landscaped most of Rio’s parks and gardens (and indeed most of Brazils) as well turning out a huge collection of drawings, paintings, sculptures and ceramics. The Imperial Palace also has a restaurant and a wonderful book/music store with a great little café tucked between the discs and the tomes.

Rio de Janeiro, Paco Imperial bookshop
The bookshop at the Paco Imperial




The Praca XV de Novembro is at its best during work hours when there are crowds around to bring it to life. During the weekend, it is rather bleak, lonely and uncomfortable.
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Carnaval 2009 in Rio

March 10th 2009 23:19
The Mayor of Rio de Janeiro, Eduardo Paes, described it in the Carnaval catalogue as the most spectacular show on earth. For me, the 2009 Carnaval, my first, was all of that and more. The size, the scale and the sound of it were literally incredible, the colour and creativity truly breathtaking, the organisation, simply amazing. For me, this was the show of a lifetime.

Carnaval in Rio
Salguiero's drums


Between 3 and 5 thousand people take part in each samba school’s procession. Of all ages, of all races and from every corner of their communities, they represent the huge melting pot that is Brazil. There are administrators, resplendent in the colours of their school and teams of technicians in t-shirts. Countless “forca” push or pull floats carrying a vast cast of singers, dancers and acrobats. Conductors orchestrate a legion of different drums, whistles, shakers, rattles and shakers of the Batterie. “Directors” and “harmonia” keep the endless ranks of foot soldiers moving in time, on time and smoothly. These are the loyal school devotees who have practised for months, the tourists, taking the shuffle of a lifetime through the sambadrome, the sambistas, the carnival goddesses - plumed, be-jewelled, glittering and gorgeous, the bahianas - the whirling grandmothers in their sweeping skirts, the kids' contingent with their lightning feet and the flag bearers, picked from the neighbourhood’s ordinary youth and transformed, for the night, into princes and princesses.

Carnaval in Rio
Prince and Princess of the flag


Each school has a theme which ties the whole gigantic spectacle together. These are expressed through countless floats, each one a huge extravaganza with its own brilliant (and significant) show and through up to 55 different groups of characters and creatures, all pertinent to the theme and all in dazzling costumes which in some way underscore it. The school’s specially composed samba which accompanies the spectacle and provides its voice and its rhythm is another thread for the theme. So is much of the the choreography. Some themes are simple, like Salgueiro’s “tambor” or drum which looked at the instrument in its many forms across cultures, throughout history and of course as a cornerstone of Brazil's own samba. Others are deep and meaningful like Porto Pedro's "curiosity" which explored the outcomes of human curiosity, from pre-history to the present and included inventions ranging from the club to nuclear weapons. Others are local, like Vila Isabel’s history of Rio’s Municipal Theatre which took in the history of the building from its inaurguration to the current renovations, as well as the stars who have appeared there. Others, again, are universal, like Portela’s “love” which included every imaginable kind of devotion from birds billing and cooing to internet romances. And some are ingenious, like Beija Flor’s “water” which covered everything from the sea and its creatures to the bath-tub and its characters

Carnaval in Rio
Salguiero's tambor


This year the simple theme proved best. First place went to Salguiero. But ingenuity paid off too. Beija Flor came in 2nd. And clearly, the judges hearts were moved by Portela which took 3rd place. But the theme is is only a small element in the winning Carnaval formula. Competition is tough and every minute detail of the performance counts - the theme itself, the expression of the theme, floats, costumes, choreography, music - batterie, band, singers, animation, spontaneity, cohesion and I suppose the elusive x-factor. Then, last but not least there's the time factor; every school must complete the procession through the Sambadrome in no less than 65 and in no more than 80 minutes.

Carnaval in Rio
A carnaval goddess


Carnival is not for the faint-hearted. Beginning at 9pm, when the first fireworks light the sky and the first drum beat sounds and ending at 6am, when the last officials samba through the g-string-framed, buttock-shaped exit arches of the Sambadrome, it’s an all-nighter on full alert - with eyes, ears, voice, hips and feet engaged at all times.

The Sambadrome, Rio
The exit arches of the Sambadrome


Nevertheless, after our night at the Desfiles de Segunda, (the Monday Parade and the second night of the competition) we were hooked. We'd formed our sllegiances. So when all of our schools made it into the top six, we simply had to go back the following Saturday for the Sabado Campeias.

Our Carnaval experience was organised by Tatiana of Blumar (www.blumar.com.br) It included transfers from our hotel, brilliant and very useful insights into the whole business of Carnaval from our guide Ricardo, second row seats in the frisas of Setor 9, the tourist sector and personal visits, with more insights and explanations, throughout the show from Tatiana and Junior. Muito obrigado to you all!
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The Bloco at Barra, Rio de Janeiro

March 6th 2009 22:26
To most of the world, Carnaval in Rio is the spectacular samba schools’ parade. But to many, and especially to the ordinary people of Rio, Carnaval is the Bloco, or local community festival.

Bloca da Barra Rio de Janeiro
The Grand Parade at Barra

[ Click here to read more ]
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