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Travel Stripe - August 2008

Josefov Prague's Jewish Quarter

August 31st 2008 08:56
Josefov, the Jewish Quarter of Prague which lies between the right bank of the Vltava and the Old Town Square, is one of the oldest parts of the city.

The Jewish Quarter, Prague
The street beside the Jewish cemetery in Prague



The first Jews arrived in Prague as early as the 10th century, during the reign of Prince Borivoj Premyslovic. They were merchants, following the trade routes across Europe into the promising new town. In the 11th century, during the prosperous reign of King Vratislav II, Jewish settlers, also attracted by commercial opportunities, arrived and set up businesses on the right bank, near the market square in the Old Town. A settlement grew around them, with houses, synagogues and a cemetery. In the 13th century, during one of many periods of persecution, all the Jews were ordered to leave their homes around the city and move into the Jewish quarter. Their movements, as well as the trades and professions they were allowed to follow, were restricted. More and more Jews, prohibited from other parts of Prague, crowded into the area. Walls were thrown up to contain it. It became a ghetto. Over the next century savage Pogroms took place, the worst of which was the 1389 Easter Sunday massacre of 1,500 people.

The Jewish Museum, Prague
The Jewish Museum



Towards the end of the 16th century, conditions improved in the Jewish ghetto. The philanthropic Emperor Rudolph II’s Imperial Charter granted unprecedented religious freedoms. Jewish scholars and philosophers arrived in the city, among them the Maharal Judah Leow Ben Bazale. Legend has it that the Maharal created a magical golem from Vltava clay to protect the Jews in the ghetto. The golem was so powerful that Emperor begged the Maharal to destroy it. It was confined in a coffin which, according to legend still lies buried in Josefov today. Under the protection of the Emperor Rudolph, the Maharal and the golem, the population in the ghetto grew to 1500, about one quarter of Prague’s total. The Jewish Mayor, Mordechai Maisel became the Minister of Finance and his money helped to develop the ghetto. Jewish Prague enjoyed a golden age.

The Jewish Quarter, Prague
An ancient synagogue


But, in 1745, after the Thirty Years’ War, Maria Theresa of Austria, alleging collaboration with the Prussians, expelled all the Jews from Prague. The ghetto became a ghost town. Three years later, however, they were allowed to return. Life resumed.

In 1779 restrictions on Jews eased. They were allowed to settle outside the city and as the liberal and the affluent abandoned it, leaving only the orthodox and the poor behind, the poulation dwindled. In 1781, the new Emperor Joseph II’s Edict of Tolerance emancipated the Jews of Prague, giving them the rights of other citizens. In gratitude, they named the Jewish quarter Josefov. In 1850 Josefov achieved the status of a town.

The Jewish Quarter, Prague
A Josefov street


Between 1893 and 1913, during the frenzy of renovation and re-building that marked the dawn of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, much of old Prague was demolished to make way for a new city, modelled on Paris. In the aftermath, only six synagogues, the old cemetery, and the Old Jewish Town Hall remained of Josefov.

In 1939, the Nazis arrived. The Jewish population of Prague was systematically removed - murdered or transported to concentration camps like Theresienstadt or Auschwitz. The ghetto was once again a ghost town. Contrary to all expectations, it was not demolished. It was marked for a far more gruesome destiny as an "exotic museum of an extinct race". Jewish artifacts were gathered from all over central Europe for display in Josefov.

Today, Josefov is picturesque quarter of narrow lanes and old stone buildings. The Jewish people, although decimated in number, have returned and their story continues. Josefov is a peaceful village, despite the thousands of tourists that stream through its streets, where businesses trade, from tiny shops and stalls, in fine lace decorated with judaic motifs, in candles, menora and yamulke.

In the Jewish Museum 40,000 exhibits of textiles, art and silver and 100,000 books from all over Bohemia and Moravia, tell the long and fascinating story of the Jews of the Czech Republic.

The Old-New Synagogue is the main house of prayer for Prague’s Jewish community but it is open to the public. Built in the 13th century, it is the oldest synagogue in Central Europe. It is in the Gothic style and is richly adorned with elaborate stonework. All the interior furnishings are originals.

The Jewish cemetery holds the graves of centuries of souls who have lived in Josefov. Its most famous include those of the Maharal Judah Leow Ben Bazale and Franz Kafka.

Most of the historical sights in the Jewish Quarter come under the auspices of the Jewish Museum and a single ticket gains entrance to all its buildings, including the Town Hall and the six synagogues.
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Every cloud has a silver lining as they say and although the reconstruction of Prague’s Jewish quarter, Josefov, in the late 1800s, gave the kiss of death to three lovely old synagogues, it also gave birth, in the next century, to the Jerusalem or Jubilee synagogue, the city’s largest and most spectacular.

The Jubilee Synagogue, Prague
The Jubilee Synagogue


A “Society for the Construction of a New Temple” was founded in 1898 and in January 1899, the society purchased a site for the building. Interestingly it was not in Josefov but in Jerusalem Street, in the New Town. In 1904 Viennese architect Wilhelm Stiassny’s design was approved and construction began in 1906. The synagogue was dedicated on 16 September 1906 during the festival of Simhat Torah. This was also the 50th anniversary of the Emperor Franz Josef I, hence the name Jubilee Synagogue.

The Synagogue combines contemporary Art Nouveau with ancient Moorish style. Its structure consists of a triple-nave with two transverse wings. The main facade is distinctive, featuring a large Islamic arch surrounding a rosette window with a central Star of David. On the perimeter, an inscription from Psalm 118:20 reads “This is the gateway to the Lord – the righteous shall enter through it” A marble tablet, flanked by two turrets sits on the front gable. The arched entrance is inscribed with a verse from Malachi 2:10 “Have we not one Father? Did not one God create us?” The interior is lit by stained vast glass windows and ornate chandeliers. Two rows of seven Islamic arches support the women’s gallery. In the main nave is an inscribed tablet from the Zigeuner, one of Josefov’s demolished synagogues. The high Ark (aron ha-kodesh) is ornamented with a vine leaf motif and the tablets of the Ten Commandments.

The Jubilee Synagogue, Prague
The Jubilee Synagogue


During the war, the Jubilee Synagogue was used as a warehouse which saved it from destruction despite rather savage wear and tear.

In 1992 a programme of renovation began with funding from the Czech Ministry of Culture, Prague City Hall and the Jewish Community in Prague. In January 2003, during a survey of the wall paintings, a parchment scroll was found under a marble stone near the high ark. It contained a description of the history of the building, information about the owners and builders of the synagogue, as well as a list of the firms and craftsmen involved. The document ends with the following text “This document was drawn up in commemoration of the successful completion of this building. It was signed by all those who were involved in the construction and, in the presence of many guests of honour, it was placed in the last stone of the building. May this temple survive many centuries and testify, even in the distant future, to the devout souls of its founders. May it fully serve its purpose for all time: to bring together worshippers in a place where they can uplift their souls to the Creator. May the Lord give! Done in Prague, on the 16th of September of 1906.”

The Jerusalem /Jubilee Synagogue is a landmark in early twentieth century Prague architecture as well as an important spiritual and cultural centre for Jewish Prague. It is open for prayer on Saturdays at 9.00 a.m. all year and on Fridays at 20:00 from April to September. During the summer months, it is open to the public for a fee of 50CZK and is also used as a venue for concerts and exhibitions.


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Known affectionately as the pearl of Prague, the Cathedral of St. Nicholas in Malo Strana, is one of the city’s most impressive Baroque buildings.

The Cathedral of St Nicholas, Prague
The front of the Cathedral of St Nicholas


Its story dates back to 1223, when it began life as the modest parish Church of St Nicholas in the village below Prague Castle.

After the Battle of White Mountain, which put an end to the Hussite Wars in 1620, the victorious Catholics set about reasserting the church’s presence and authority. Hundreds of new churches were established and many old ones re-built in the grand baroque style of the times.

In 1702 Kristof Dienzenhofer designed a magnificent new Cathedral to replace the humble parish church of St Nicholas. Construction continued after his death under his son Kilian Ignac Dietzenhofer who also designed the vault and the landmark green dome. Two new wings were added. The left houses the Chapel of St Barbara and the right, the chapel of St Anne. In 1752 an 80 metre bell tower, by Anselmo Lurago completed the Cathedral.

During his years living and composing in Prague, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart frequented St Nicholas and played on its organ.

During the Communist era St Nicholas ceased to be used as a house of worship.

Today, the dome and the bell tower are Malo Strana landmarks, symbols of the city of Prague and some of the world’s finest examples of Baroque architecture. Masses are held once again in the Cathedral and the faithful come once more to pray in the chapels of St Barbara and St Anne. But St Nicholas has become most famous as a music venue and concerts are held here all year round and every day during the high tourist season
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Great Prague Landmarks; Two Towers

August 25th 2008 08:14
Mediaeval, Gothic, Romanesque, Renaissance and Baroque, Prague’s towers are as much a part of its magic as its castle, its bridges, its squares and its beautiful buildings. They perch on bridges, rise from rooftops or from ramparts and loom on corners, at junctions or the end of streets. They all have their own special style, charm and story. But still, there are two that stand as it were, above the rest.

The Powder Tower, Prague
The Powder Tower

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From its lofty seat at the top of the rise, the National Museum looks down like a grand old dame on Prague’s busy Wenceslas Square. Its gold dome and magnificent neo-renaissance façade compel the eyes and turn the heads of all who pass.

Wenceslas Square, Prague
The National Museum at the top of Wenceslas Square

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The Rudolphinum, which shares a square on the banks of the Vltava with the two ancient halls of Charles University, is one of Prague’s most elegant neo-renaissance buildings. Like the National Theatre, it was constructed during the late 19th century during the resurgence of Czech national pride and culture.

The Rudolphinum, Prague
The Rudolphinum

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The National Theatre, Prague
The National Theatre


In the late 1900s, after almost two hundred years under the heel of the Habsburghs, a Czech Nationalist movement was born. With it came a renaissance in Czech culture and the establishment of some great institutions to celebrate it


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Literally one of Prague’s most striking attractions, the astronomical clock or orloj in the Old Town Square is also one of the world’s most unusual timepieces.

The Astronomical Clock, Prague
The Astronomical clock

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The Old Town Hall
The Old Town Hall in Prague's Old Town Square, was built in 1338, under King John of Luxembourg, to house Prague’s first city council. Later in the 14th century the 69.5 metre tower, with its extraordinary astronomical clock, were added. Along with the rest of Prague, the Old Town Hall was renovated in the Neo-Gothic Style when King Vladimir Jagellon took the throne in the 15th century.

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Great cityscapes are distinguished as much by the might and majesty of their bridges as by the grandeur of their buildings. What is London without Tower Bridge, Paris without the Pont Neuf, San Francisco without the Golden Gate or Sydney without the Harbour Bridge? And what indeed is Prague without the Charles Bridge?

The Charles Bridge, Prague
The Tower on the Mala Strana side of the Charles Bridge

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