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Travel Stripe - June 2008

Hailed as the mother of all cities and the golden city, Hlavni mesto Praha or Prague – the capital city, has been the economic, cultural and political heart of the Czech Republic for over 2000 years. It is widely held to be the most beautiful city in Europe and is one of its most often visited. Prague’s spectacular architecture and its fascinating cultural heritage beg the questions – Who created this beautiful city? What forces shaped this rich culture? How has it survived for over 1100 years? The answer lies in its history.

The Vltava River, Prague
The Vltava River



This sensational and highly advantageous location on the banks of Vltava River in Bohemia, at the very heart of Europe, has been settled since the Paleolithic Age. The first known inhabitants, from around 500 BC, were the Celtic Boii who named the area Bohemia and the river Vltava. Trade routes, connecting northern and southern Europe, followed the course of the river through the region. These opened Bohemia to other influences and more importantly to successive waves of migration which began in the 2nd century and continued until the 10th. In 9AD the Germanic, Marcomanni with their King, Maroboduus, arrived, followed by the Lombards. Many assimilated with the Celts and settled here. Others continued to migrate south ahead of the West Slavs' invasion in the 6th century. Finally, in the 7th century, the Czech Slavs settled in Bohemia and the Czech nation was founded.


Wenceslas Square, Prague
Looking down Wenceslas Square from the National Museum


Prehistoric and very early Prague can be explored in the National Museum. There is a wonderful collection of artefacts, including tools, weapons, pots, jewellery and even bones, along with re-constructions of early tribal life.

The National Museum, Prague
The lobby of the National Museum


The museum also houses the nation’s natural history collection with vast rooms full of crystals, fossils, shells, skeletons and stuffed animals.

The building is a grand, neo-classical wonder with gleaming marble halls, majestic pillars and sweeping staircases – a dark, heavy, echoing, awe-inspiring place which is worth visiting just for its architecture and its ambience.

The National Museum is at the top end of Wenceslas Square.. Admission is 120 Korun

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The main modes of dress are the sari and the salwar, the air is scented with tumeric and saffron, Bollywood music wafts from the windows, signs point to mosques and temples whose facades sit alongside the shop-fronts, the smiles or suspicious stares shoot from the dark, fine-featured faces of South Asia, the language - Bangladeshi or English - is as fast-flowing and unfathomable as the Ganges, innit? and the streets are straight from Indian subcontinent. Yet Brick Lane in London’s East End is now as much a part of the city as the traditional pub or Buckingham Palace and heading down for a curry is as much a London ritual as a pint down at the local or the changing of the guards.

Brick Lane, London
A Brick Lane business


Banglatown, as the locals like to call Brick Lane and its environs, is the heart of London’s Bangladeshi community. It has long been a haven for migrants. The French Huguenots, fleeing religious persecution, settled here in the 15th century. Later, Brick lane became the centre of Jewish London. The first settlers, mainly single men seeking work, arrived from Bangladesh in the 1920s. At first they worked in the Jewish enterprises which then lined Brick Lane and its side streets. With successive waves of migration throughout the 20th century, the new Bangladeshi community gradually supplanted the Jewish community. The Synagogues gave way to Mosques. More importantly, Jewish businesses gave way to restaurants where the great tradition of Anglo-Indian food began.

Brick Lane London
Monsoon


Dining in Brick Lane is an all-encompassing experience. It’s good to begin with a stroll down the street alongside ancient Bangaldeshi Grand-dads on their way to the Mosque and shawl-draped Grandmas with shopping bags, past the halal butchers and grocery stores stacked with mysterious tins and packets, to browse the menus in restaurant windows, to haggle and strike a deal with the good-natured curry touts who lean from every doorway “ free naan and dips” “ complimentary bottle of wine”. Whichever curry house you choose, the menu is varied, the food is generally very good, the service is excellent and the ambience is lively and authentic. Many restaurants don’t serve alcohol as they are owned and staffed by Moslems, but will allow customers to bring their own wine and beer.

We dined at Monsoon in a narrow old Huguenot house with a wide dark wooden stairway. The style of the establishment was pure British India, with elaborately dressed tables, shining silver, delicate china with a anglo-Indian motif iin elegant green and silver. The popadoms with raita, mango chutney, a searing but cleansing nameless paste, cooling onion and tomato, chicken tikka masala, coconut rice, kingfisher beer and cocnut ice-cream were sensational, inexpensive and served with grace and good humour. But most fascinating (and priceless) were the little vignettes of local family life in every corner - behind the bar, a bored schoolboy polishing glasses, at a table near the kitchen, a veiled teenage girl eating a hasty meal while a gnarled grandmother glowers from the doorway and a Bollywood movie-star maitre d' lording it over the waiters and patronising the punters. .

But Brick Lane isn’t just about Bangladesh and food. The Brick Lane market, which dates back several centuries to the heyday of the Jewish community, offers a huge variety of merchandise and attracts millions of Londoners and tourists every year. Recently the area has become a centre for student art and fashion and each year their work is displayed in the exhibition spaces in and around Brick Lane. In the last decade, the old Truman Brewery, once the industrial hub of the area, is now an office and entertainment complex. It is home to two of London’s most popular nightclubs, 93 Feet East and Vibe. The Brick Lane Festival, which began in 1991 is now a huge event – a colourful spectacle and a celebration of the rich culture flourishing in Banglatown today.

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London's Borough Market

June 24th 2008 08:16
A dense, slow-moving crowd of back-packs, baskets, shopping trolleys, along with wide-eyed, camera-wielding tourists, weaves through the narrow aisles and mills around the chain of stalls stacked with colourful produce. The air is heavy with tantalising smells. The shrill cries of the touts rise above a hubbub of voices, the distant beat of a busker’s drum, the intermittent roar of a train and the constant rumble of traffic. It’s Saturday morning at Borough Market, London’s oldest, most famous and most popular fresh food market.

Borough Market, London
The Borough Market Hall


There was a market here in Southwark, just south of London Bridge, at the time of the Roman conquest in the 5th century. It survived the subsequent invasion by the Norsemen, who burned down the bridge. After the arrival of King Canute in 1014AD, the market moved onto the re-constructed bridge but by the 13th century, it had begun to cause access problems and was moved.

Borough Market, London
The Market Hall


After several re-locations around the south of the bridge, the market found a home at the meeting point of all the roads from the South Coast into the city of London. Merchants from all over England and Europe came to sell their produce here. Travellers stopped to stock up and eat before resuming their journeys. This was the beginning of Borough Market’s international fame. By the 18th century, with the industrial revolution, the Southwark skyline was a forest of factory chimneys and its roads were congested with traffic. The market, in its central crossroads location, was major obstruction. In 1754, it was demolished and re-located to the present site which since has proved perfect for the sale of produce arriving at the Pool of London and at London Bridge Railway Station.

Borough Market, London
Stalls at Borough Market


Today, Borough Market is administered by a Trust composed of local residents. It is a centre for food excellence and attracts customers from all over London and tourists from all over the world. Merchants come from all over England and Europe to sell their produce. Delicious local fruit, fish, meat, milk, cider, beer, fruit juices and preserves take their place alongside olives, olive oil, pasta and sauces from Italy, cheese, wine and bread from France, a thousand and one wursts from Germany, and oranges from Spain and Portugal. Borough Market is still dedicated to food and drink. The only things on sale which are not edible or drinkable are plants and flowers, charming plates, bowls, cups, glasses, tea-towels, oven cloths, aprons and mouth-watering pictures of food.

Borough Market, London
Painted paltes at Borough Market


Borough Market has recently celebrated 250 years of trading on its current site. Although threatened by a plan to extend London Bridge Railway Station, the Trust and the local residents are determined to see it survive another 200 years of trading.

Borough Market, London
Produce Stall at Borough Market


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Lambeth Palace Garden

June 23rd 2008 05:19
Bounded by high stone walls, its gates firmly locked for most of the year against the outside world, the Lambeth Palace garden is one of London’s best kept and loveliest secrets.

Lambeth Palace Garden, London
Looking back to the Palace from the Rowan Avenue, planted in 2004

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At a busy roundabout on London’s Albert Embankment, just over the river from the Houses of Parliament is the world’s first Museum of Garden History.

The Museum of Garden History, London
The Museum of Garden History

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On stage is a flashing wheel of lights, eerily reminiscent of the steely giant grids that whirled through outer space in Stanley Kubric’s vision for the future, 2001 A Space Odyssey. The darkness is cut by piercing beams which bounce off the mushroom sound buffers high in the dome and fall across the tiers of spellbound listeners below. The air is electric as Mark Knofler casts his magic out into the Royal Albert Hall.

The Royal Albert Hall, London
The Royal Albert Hall

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Budapest is more than the beautiful blue Danube with its romantic garden island and its spectacular bridges. It is more than grand castles, fine buildings, impressive monuments and luxurious spas. It is also the epicentre of that rich and diverse Hungarian cultural heritage which draws on everything from Gypsy violins, accordions and folk dance, to the sophisticated orchestras and waltzes of the Hapsburg court. No visit to Budapest is complete without sampling something of that culture.

Budapest
Square in Budapest

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Margaret Island, Budapest

June 2nd 2008 18:20
Margaret Island lies in the Danube, between Budapest’s Arpad Bridge, which links it to Obuda and Pest in the south, and Margaret Bridge which provides its access to Buda and Pest in the north. Hidden among its 225 acres of rambling gardens, are playgrounds, sports venues, spas, pools, monuments, fountains, hotels, cafes and historic ruins.

Margaret Island, Budapest
Margaret Island in the distance on the Danube.

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