Read + Write + Report
Home | Start a blog | About Orble | FAQ | Sites | Writers | Advertise | My Orble | Login

Travel Stripe - May 2008

The Bridges of Budapest

May 30th 2008 16:06
Almost as striking as the Danube, and certainly among Budapest’s greatest engineering masterpieces are its beautiful bridges. Although, like most bridges in Huingary, they were blown up during the German retreat in 1945, each and every one of them was rebuilt after the war. Some were pieced together from the shattered wreckage dragged from the river. All but one were restored to exactly to their original appearance.

Szechenyi Bridge, Budapest
Szechenyi Bridge, from the Pest bank



Arpad Hid, or the Arpad Bridge is Budapest’s northernmost public bridge and its second youngest. Spanning 2 kilometres, it is also Hungary’s longest. Beginning in Buda at Szentlelek Ter, near the main square of Obuda and ending in Pest on Robert Karoly Korut, it overlooks Obuda Island and Margaret Island. It was designed by János Kossalka and construction began in 1939. However the project was suspended during World War II and the Arpad bridge was not completed until 1950.

Margit híd or Margaret Bridge spans the Danube between Jászai Mar ter at the Northern end of Pest’s Grand Boulevard and Germanus Gyula Park near the Király Baths on the Buda side, passing just in front of Margaret Island. It is Budapest’s second northernmost public bridge and the second oldest after the Széchenyi Chain Bridge. Measuring 637.5 m in length and 25 m in width, it was designed by the French engineer Ernest Gouin in 1872 and completed by his construction company, Maison Čmile Gouin in 1876.


Soon after the bridge was opened, it became a popular spot for suicides. The wave of deaths inspired renowned Hungarian poet, János Arany to compose a ballad which, illustrated with intricate and romantic pencil drawings by artist Mihaly Zichy and printed in leaflet form, became a best-seller in the city.

In 1944 a section of the Margaret Bridge collapsed killing 600 civilians and 40 German soldiers. Today the bridge is badly worn and in need of repair or renewal.

Szechenyi Chain Bridge, Budapest
A Szechenyi Bridge Lion


Széchenyi lánchíd or Széchenyi Chain Bridge links Pest’s Roosevelt Square with Buda’s Adam Clark Ter. It was another of Istvan Szechenyi's inspired initiatives. Opened in 1849, it was Budapest’s first permanent trans-Danube bridge. It was designed by the English engineer William Tierney Clark who modeled it on a bridge he had built earlier across the Thames at Marlow in England. Construction was supervised by Scottish engineer Adam Clark (no relation). The pairs of lions at each of the abutments were added in 1852 and in 1898 the bridge was officially named the Széhenyi Lanchid. Its steel structure was totally updated in 1914 and entire bridge was rebuilt after World War II, reaching completion in 1949.

At the time of its construction, the Szechenyi Chain Bridge, with its hitherto unheard of 202 metre span, was hailed as a wonder of the world. Its cast iron decorations, along with its balanced and dignified construction, put it among the most beautiful industrial monuments in Europe. It also had an enormous significance in Hungary. Besides its advantage in transportation, the "Lánchíd" seemed to stand for advancement, national awakening, and the linkage between East and West. It reflected the confidence and optimism of the era of the Dual Monarchy. Furthermore it forecast the later unification of Buda and Pest as Budapest.

According to popular rumour, the sculptor of the bridge’s lions was so relentlessly mocked for creating animals without tongues that he threw himself into the Danube. The lions, as it turns out, actually do have tongues but they are not visible from the bridge. In 2001, Hungarian stunt pilot Peter Besenyei flew upside down under the Szechenyi lanchid, setting a trend for manoeuvres in today’s Red Bull air races. Széchenyi Bridge also starred in the 2002 film I Spy.

Szechenyi Bridge, Budapest
Szechenyi Bridge by night


Erzsébet híd, Erzsébet Bridge or Elisabeth Bridge, originally built between 1897 and 1903, was the one of Budapest’s most elegant bridges. Situated at the narrowest part of the Danube, it is only 290 metres long. It is named after Elisabeth, a popular queen and empress of the Dual Monarchy, who was assassinated in 1898. A bronze statue of Queen Erzebet sits in the middle of a small garden in Buda’s Dobrentei Square, just below the Gellért Hill near the Rudas Baths. On the Pest side the bridge ends in March 15 Square, site of the oldest church in Pest, Inner City Parish Church, built in the 13th century, and the famous Mátyás Pince restaurant. At the Buda end Erzsébet bridge leads directly into the massive foot of Gellért Hill. The unsuitable and dangerous siting of the bridge was the result of bribery and corruption involving the City Council and the wealthy nobleman who owned the land there. In its time the sharp turn at the end of the bridge has claimed many lives and permanently damaged many others. Nevertheless, the bridge was rebuilt in the same location in 1964 because the government could not afford to construct entirely new foundations.

The Erzsébet was the only bridge in Budapest which could not be rebuilt in its original form. The current slender white cable construction with its hexagonal mains spars and thousands of steel wires of seven different diameters was designed by Pál Sávoly. At the time it was a first in Central Europe. It considered one of Budapest’s loveliest bridges.

Szabadsag Hid or Liberty Bridge, sometimed called the Freedom Bridge is Budapest's third southermost. It is located at the southern end of the City Centre. On the Buda bank, it ends at the foot of Gellért Hill, with the Gelleért Spa and Hotel Gellért nearby. On the pest bank it ends in Fovam Tér near the Great Market Hall and the Budapest University of Economics. The Liberty Bridge was designed by Janos Keketeházy and built between 1894 and 1896 It is 333.6 metres long and 20.1 metres wide. While its structure is different, its shape follows the form of the chain bridge. The top of the four masts are decorated with large bronze statues of the Turul, a falcon-like bird, prominent in ancient Hungarian mythology.. The bridge was originally named after the Emperor Franz Joseph, who officially opened it and nailed in the last silver rivet on the Pest abutment.

Today, the Liberty Bridge is heavily congested and moves are afoot to convert it to a pedestrian only crossing. It is currently under renovation until the end of 2008.

Petofi híd or Petofi Bridge, named after Sándor Petófi the poet who inspired the revolution of 1848 is the second southernmost public bridge in Budapest. Designed by Pál Álgyai Hubert it was built between 1933-1937, it links Boráros tér on the Pest bank of the Danube with Goldmann György Tér, next to the Budapest University of Technology and Economics on the Buda bank.

Lágymányosi híd or Lágymányosi Bridge, sometimes called Lágymányos Bridge, is named after the south Buda district of Lágymányos. Opened in 1995, it is the southernmost and the newest public bridge in the capital.
42
Vote
   


One of the most striking and memorable features of Budapest’s beauty is the river that flows through it – the Danube. In the sunshine its swirling currents dance with gold. At night its black velvet surface mirrors the city lights. Under dark winter skies it is moody, mysterious. Spanned by lovely old bridges and with a tranquil, wooded island at its centre, it is the stuff of movies, poetry, song and romance. It’s easy to understand how it moved Johann Strauss to compose his famous Blue Danube Waltz.

The Danube, Budapest
The Danube from Buda Castle


But that was in a different age, before the Danube became the busy waterway it is now. Surprisingly, before the 19th century, apart from bank to bank ferries, the Danube was not used as a means of transport or as an international trade route. With its strong currents, shifting sandbanks and unpredictable tides, it was considered too dangerous. It was Istvan Széchenyi who recognised the Danube’s potential as a trade route and its importance to the economic growth of Pest and of Hungary. He set about lobbying Vienna for political and financial support to promote the regulation of the river from Pest to the Black Sea to create a navigable waterway. By the 1830s when work began project Széchenyi had become a leading figure on the project. He was appointed high commissioner and supervised the works until their completion. At the same time, he travelled to Constantinople and worked tirelessly to promote Hungarian goods and produce, to open up markets and to build up trade relations on the Balkan.

The Danube, Budapest
The Danube by night


Today, traffic roars along the banks of the Danube and across its bridges. Cruise ships carrying cocktail sipping, deck-chair lounging passengers, tour boats blaring loud commentaries and barges loaded with cargo, ride its currents. In the summer, sun-lovers bask on its beaches. But, still in cafes, bars and restaurants along its banks and in fact, all over Budapest, gypsy violins, bands and orchestras belt out the Blue Danube Waltz.
38
Vote
   


Pest, which lies on the east bank of the Danube, is flatter, bigger, busier and younger than Buda and Obuda. However, it is by no means less well endowed with majestic buildings, grand monuments, fascinating history and iconic characters than its west bank sisters.

Hero's Statue on Andrassy Ut, Budapest
A Hungarian Hero


Following the final defeat of the Magyars in 955, Istvan I set up Hungary’s Royal Court in Pest. His Arpad Dynasty flourished here until 1242, when, after the Mongol attacks, Bela IV moved it to the hilltop castle in Buda. Life continued peacefully for Pest until it was razed by the Turks in the 14th century. The town was rebuilt from the ashes after Hungary was finally freed from the Turks by the Hapsburg commander Eugene of Savoy in 1686. So, even though Pest’s history as a Hungarian town is older than Buda’s or Obuda’s, its bricks and mortar are younger. Its oldest building is the former Péterffy Palace, now Százévres Restaurant, which was built in1708. With the formation of Budapest in 1873, came a frenzied building boom as the Dual Monarchy sought to create a city to rival Vienna, Paris and the other great cities of Europe. Pest, as the centre of government, administration and commerce for the new capital, benefited royally from the boom and its beautiful, coherent cityscape was born of this time.

Flat, compact, logically laid out and liberally dotted with landmarks, as well as picturesque spots to pause and drink them all in, Pest is a wonderful place for walkers. A stroll around the boulevards uncovers one brilliant building after another. Each little side street opens onto a stunning square and every square has at least one great monument with a fascinating story.

Parliament Building, Budapest
The Parliament building


A good place to begin a promenade around Pest is down by the Danube, with the totally unmissable star of this side of the city, the immense, neo-gothic Hungarian Parliament, on Lajos Kossuth Ter. Measuring 268 by 116 metres, it has 20km of staircases winding through its interior, 233 statues adorning its exterior and a giant 96 metre dome. The building was designed by Imre Steindl. Construction began in 1884 and was completed in 1904. Its frescos are the work of some of Hungary’s most notable artists, among them Karoly Lotz and Mihaly Munkacsy. To the north and south of the Parliament are statues of the poet Jozsef Attila and Count Mihaly Karoly who headed Hungary’s first Republic in 1919. In front of the building, are the statues Lajos Kossuth, leader of the 1848-49 revolution and Ferenc Rakoczi II who led the failed War of Independence 1703-1711. On the other side of Kossuth Ter is the beautiful neo-baroque Ethnographic Museum. Constructed in 1896 as the seat of the Royal Court, it later became the Palace of Justice. Inside are a massive hall with pillars stretching over several stories, stained glass windows and a superb Karoly Lotz ceiling fresco. The museum’s collections give a fascinating insight into life, especially village life, in Hungary through the ages.

Further down the river, on Roosevelt Ter, sits the magnificent neo-renaissance, Hungarian Science Academy. Built between 1862 and 1865 it was the brainchild of Istvan Szechenyi, whose name and mark are on many of Budapest’s great 19th century ventures. Also on Roosevelt Ter is the art nouveau Gresham Palace, now a Four Seasons Hotel but built originally in 1903 by Szigmund Quittner for the Gresham Life Insurance Company. Further down again is Petoffi Ter, which was named in memory of the poet who inspired the 1848 revolution against the Austrians. The square has been the scene of many memorable demonstrations and protests ever since. All along the promenade chic restaurants and bars (some on jetties and moored boats) provide stunning views, especially at night, across the Danube to Buda Castle and the Statue of Liberty on Gellert Hill.

Buda Castle and Szchenyi Bridge, Budapest
Buda Castle and Szchenyi Bridge from the Pest bank of the Danube


Just beyond the Danube’s Liberty Bridge is the Market Hall, an old steel-framed brick building which dates back to the end of 19th century. The ground floor stalls offer local produce of every kind; fresh fruit and vegetables, meat and fish; wine, cheeses, nuts, pulses, preserves and pickles and sweet and pungent smelling Hungarian delicacies. Upstairs are exquisite local crafts, knitted goods, lace, embroidery and fabulous wooden toys – knights and soldiers, cars and trains and gorgeous dolls of all sizes, in national dress. There are bands, buskers, constant movement, noise and fun. There are sensational little eateries selling traditional dishes. Everything is cheap.
.
Museum Korut, or Museum Street, which curves away from the river, is home to two of Hungary’s great Museums. The Hungarian National Museum, founded by Ferenc Szechenyi (father of Istvan) in 1802, houses an exhibition illustrating the history of the Hungarian State, from its foundations to the 20th century. It includes displays of jewels, craft work, furniture arms and armour, paintings, garments, posters, films and even a piece of the Berlin Wall. St Stephen’s crown, coronation mantle, royal scepter, orb and sword, which were smuggled to Germany at the end of the war and eventually returned to Hungary by the US in 1978, are on display. The neo-classical museum building is as impressive as its contents. Designed by the Viennese architect Mihaly Pollock it has a vast pillared hall hung with massive chandeliers and wide sweeping staircases. The Museum of Applied and Decorative Arts, built at the turn of the 20th century by Odon Lecher is also an architectural marvel. Inside is an amazing display of Hungarian handicrafts from ceramics to leatherwork and lace.

On the corner of Museum Korut and Racoczi Ut is the huge and magnificent Great Synagogue, which was built in the 1850s by the Viennese architect, Lugwig Forster. A museum in front of the building shows Jewish life as it used to be before the Holocaust decimated Budapest’s Jewish community. Behind it is a memorial, a metal weeping willow, its leaves inscribed with the names of the dead.

A short walk from the Synogogue lies busy, vibrant Varosmarty Ter, dedicated to the famous romantic poet Mihaly Varosmarty. The grand Gerbaud coffee house, founded by Hungary’s culinary leading light has stood at no 7 since 1858. It still offers traditional coffee and cake as well as its own home-brewed beer.

Leading away from Varosmarty Ter is Vaci Utca the smart hub of Budapest’s shopping district. It is lined with elegant department stores, global chain stores, boutiques, and international fast-food outlets as well as uniquely Hungarian folk art stores, traditional cafes, local burger joints and a fascinating little second hand shop which sells everything from old Dual Monarchy heirlooms to insignia from Soviet uniforms. The area comes alive at night when Budapest comes out to play in Vaci Utca’s clubs and bars.

Szabadsag Ter, Budapest
Szbadsag ter


Across busy, constantly shifting Deak Ter, Budapest’s transport hub, just back from the river, behind and between Roosevelt Ter and Kossuth Lajos Ter, is quiet, quaint Leopold Town. Its beautiful main square, Szabadsag Ter has a children’s park, bright beds of flowers and a star-crowned monument to the heroes of the 1956 uprising. It is overlooked by the majestic Hungarian Television building and the American Embassy, where the rebel Cardinal Mindszenty lived in exile between 1956 and 1971.

Majestic St Stephens Basilica, just nearby, was begun in 1851 and finished between 1873 and 1905 by the architect Moklos Ybl. The mosaics in its giant 96 metre dome are by Karoly Lotz and the figure of St Stephen on the high altar is by Alojos Strobl. The church treasury includes one of the saint’s mummified hands.

Beyond St Stephens, the grand old Hungarian State Opera House, also built by Moklos Ybl (1844-75) and guarded by statues of great composers, including Hungary’s own Franz Liszt, stands on broad tree-lined Andrassy Ut.

Heroes Square, Budapest
Heroes Square


It’s a fair hike up Andrassy Ut, through busy Oktagon Ter to Heroes Square, but it’s worth it to see this huge, powerful, sculptural extravaganza. Built in 1896 to commemorate the conquest of the Carpathian Basin by the Magyars, it depicts the Archangel Gabriel surrounded by the tribal chiefs, with Arpad, father of the Hungary's first dynasty, in the centre. The tomb of the Unknown Soldier lies at their feet and behind it are the Kings, statesmen and heroes of Hungary. In front of the monument, a vast, white flagstoned square stretches away. The Museum of Fine Arts stands on the left of the square and on the right is the Mucsarnok which houses temporary modern exhibitions.

Szchenyi Baths, Budapest
Szchenyi Baths, Budapest


Behind the heroes monument lies Virosliget or City Park, a rambling expanse of trees, lawn, flower beds and ponds, surrounded by the Budapest Zoo and the riotous Vidam Fun Park. Vajdahundad Castle, a copy of Janos (liberator from the Turks) Hunyadi’s castle in Romania, stands on an island in Virosliget’s artificial lake. It now houses the Museum of Agriculture. At Virosliget’s centre are the famous Szchenyi Baths, a huge neo-baroque complex with full spa facilities – steam baths, saunas and hot pools – as well as a fabulous communal swimming pool. And the Szchenyi Baths, after a day which has challenged the body and stimulated the brain, is great place to sink back and soak it all up.

Szchenyi Baths
Szchenyi Baths


49
Vote
   


The Danube from Buda Castle
Looking down the Danube from Buda Castle


Just along the Danube from Buda, lies Obuda. The oldest and most culturally diverse of Budapest’s three townships, its history dates back to the Stone Age and its settlers range from Romans to Germans


[ Click here to read more ]
54
Vote
   


They are tied by the threads of shared history and culture. They are bound together economically, administratively and demographically. Geographically close, they are linked by a chain of bridges over the Danube. Their architecture has common touches of the Magyars, the Turks, the Renaissance, the Dual Monarchy’s lavish quest to create a new Vienna and the Communists’ iron fist. Yet, for all that, the three little towns of Buda, Obuda and Pest, which in 1873 became Budapest, are quite unique. Each has its own remarkable stories and its own distinctive style.

Buda Castle Budapest
Buda Castle

[ Click here to read more ]
56
Vote
   


A brief introduction to Budapest

May 13th 2008 03:59
As a city, Budapest, Hungary’s capital, is relatively young. It came into being in 1873 with the amalgamation of the communities Buda and Obuda on the west and Pest on the east bank of the Danube. Budapest's history, however, is long and marked by many rises and falls in fortune.

View of Budapest from near St Matyas Church, Buda, Budapest
View Of Pest from near St Matyas Church

[ Click here to read more ]
79
Vote
   


In our morning with Cosmo, we had steeped ourselves in the world of the ancients. It was time now to step back into modern Athens.

Athens
View over Athens from the Acropolis

[ Click here to read more ]
60
Vote
   


It became clear, as he whizzed us around, pulling in under monuments while the traffic banked up honking around us, parking in clearways, seizing spaces from tourists coaches and idling with impunity on pavements, that Cosmo belonged to Athens and Athens belonged to Cosmo.

We swept across the city, past the Hospital Evangelissmos (the best in the world, according to Cosmo, where his friend, was diagnosed, treated and cured of a condition which had baffled doctors across three continents) We cruised through elegant up market Kolonaki, where trendy young Atheneians flock to hip cafes (drinking coffee which, according to Cosmo, disgraces the name) We idled in traffic outside an avant garde gallery (filled with sculptures which, according to Cosmo, would have had the ancients turning in their graves) We sped away again past a row of chic international fashion boutiques (charging a fortune for clothes, according to Cosmo, which are out-dated in one season) We climbed steadily upwards and the town fell away behind us


[ Click here to read more ]
62
Vote
   


Cosmo's Athens

May 3rd 2008 02:34
We stood on the steps of the hotel and took in the panorama of blue and white – the sun-bleached stone houses rising in thick layers across the slopes of the low, rocky hills and above them, against a flawless, early morning sky, the pale cliffs of the Acropolis, crowned by the towering columns of the Parthenon. We had one day, one frustratingly, almost insultingly, inadequate day to explore Athens. How could we cram thousands of years of civilization, history and culture into twenty four hours, less if we planned to sleep? Where should we start? How should we start? As luck would have it, the doorman had an uncle, who had a taxi…

The Acropolis, Athens
The Acropolis

[ Click here to read more ]
60
Vote
   


More Posts
2 Posts
8 Posts
9 Posts
157 Posts dating from July 2007
Email Subscription
Receive e-mail notifications of new posts on this blog:
Moderated by Patricia
Copyright © 2006 2007 2008 On Topic Media PTY LTD. All Rights Reserved. Design by Vimu.com.
On Topic Media ZPages: Sydney |  Melbourne |  Brisbane |  London |  Birmingham |  Leeds     [ Advertise ] [ Contact Us ] [ Privacy Policy ]