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Travel Stripe - February 2008

Tranquility at London's Temple

February 29th 2008 06:17
One of the great things about London is that just seconds away from the cacophony, the crowds and the chaotic traffic of the modern city there are so many peaceful havens, survivors from past centuries, untouched and timeless. One of the loveliest of these is the old and tranquil Temple, which runs between bustling Fleet Street and the roaring highway along the Thames.

Temple, London
Middle Temple



The Temple, which dates back to the time of Edward I, was named after the Order of the Knights Templar, who lived here during the 12th century. It is made up of Inner Temple and Middle Temple which, along with Gray’s and Lincoln’s, form the four Inns of Court, the traditional hubs of London law.

Temple, London
Inner Temple


Inner and Middle Temple are divided by Middle Temple Lane which, until it was cut off by buildings, ran from Fleet Street to the River. The temples consist now of a labyrinth of little courts and alleys hemmed in by magnificent halls and dotted with fountains, memorials, ents of garden and ancient trees.


Temple London
Temple church


Some of London’s oldest and most historic buildings are here among the lanes and courtyards of the Temple. The Middle Temple Hall, in Middle Temple Lane, at Fountain Court was opened by Queen Elizabeth I in 1576. The Temple Church has functioned as a Lawyers’ Church since 1608.

Temple, London
Fountain Court, Temple


Leading figures of history have been members of the Temple, like Sir Walter Raleigh who belonged to the Middle Temple. Many of the giants of English literature lived and worked here too, including Henry Fielding, Doctor Johnson, William Thackeray, Havelock Ellis, John Buchan and Anthony Hope, who conceived the idea for the Prisoner of Zenda on his way back across Fleet Street from the Courts of Justice after winning a case. Charles Lamb, son of a legal clerk, was born in Inner Temple in 1775 and lived here for much of his life; a fountain, with the inscription “Lawyers were children once”, marks his memory. Oliver Goldsmith died and was buried here, in Temple Church in 1774. The premiere of Shakespeare’s Twelfth Night was staged in the middle Temple Hall in 1601. The Temple also features in works of literature, including Shakespeare’s Henry VI, Part 1, Thackeray’s Pendennis, Virginia Woolf’s Mrs Dalloway and Dicken’s Great Expectations.

Temple, London
The Nisbett Plaque, Temple


And of course, many great legal minds were shaped and many momentous legal cases were forged in the Temple. They still are.

Temple, London
Vista from Fountain Court


Temple is wonderful place to sit, think, write or draw. Its courtyards and gardens are beautiful, sheltered, quiet and uncrowded. It is wonderful place to ramble too – one passage leads to another, one court opens to one more and every plaque, stone and statue holds another story.

Temple, London
Arcade at Temple


Acknowledgement: Ed Glinert, Literary London


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A day in Charles Dickens' House

February 28th 2008 05:57
Doughty Street is wide, treeless and somewhat desolate. It is lined with tall, 19th century terraced houses - grand homes, no doubt, in a better past, but now chopped up into poky flats and modest offices. For Sale and For Lease signs in curtainless, fluorescent-lit windows and narrow front gardens speak of a changing present and hint at an uncertain future.

Charles Dickens House, 48 Doughty Street
Charles Dickens' House, 48 Doughty Street


The Dickens House and Museum, at number 48 Doughty Street was rescued from demolition by the Dickens Fellowship in 1922. It is blessedly intact and beautifully preserved, and restored, true to both its Georgian style and its original elgance as Dickens’ home. Thick lace curtains hang at its windows and boxed geraniums bloom on their sills. Only a discreet plaque on the plain façade tells us that this is the Charles Dickens Museum. The front door is closed but a small sign welcomes visitors and invites them to ring the bell and enter.

Dickens moved to this house in 1837, at the age of twenty-five, soon after his marriage to Catherine Hogarth and just as he was beginning to taste his first success as a writer. The two years he spent here were full. He completed Pickwick Papers, wrote Oliver Twist, and Nicholas Nickleby and began Barnaby Rudge. His first two children were born here and his sister-in-law, Mary, who was the inspiration for many of his heroines, including Little Nell of The Old Curiousity Shop, died here. 48 Doughty Street was also the scene of frequent literary dinner parties.

The drawing room, Charles Dickens' House
The drawing room


The four floors of the Dickens House include authentic Victorian rooms, like the bedroom, the drawing room and the laundry, as well as a model of the Dingley Dell kitchen from the Pickwick papers. There is a beautiful collection of original furniture, including the rosewood drawing room sideboard and table and the velvet covered desk, designed by Dickens himself, which accompanied him on all his reading tours. The author’s original manuscripts, personal papers, signed letters and the annotated books used for his dramatic productions are on display. One of the most poignant items here is the grille from Marshalsea Prison, where Dickens’ family was sentenced to a year’s incarceration for debt. Another is a cardboard plaque which bears a reflection from the author on the “sentence” he served concurrently, working in a blacking, or ink, factory.

Reflection from Charles Dickens' house
Charles Dickens' reflection on his sentence to the blacking factory


The Museum houses a library, which includes many books used by Dickens himself. There are also reading and research rooms.

The Library and reading room, Charles Dickens' House
The library and reading room


There were only two three people at the Charles Dickens House the day I visited. I wandered from floor to floor and from room to room, in relative solitude, lost among the treasures and steeped in the atmosphere of the place. I gazed down at the garden and browsed in the library. I walked in Mr Dickens world.

The garden, Charles Dickens' House
The garden


The Charles Dickens House is well worth a visit, particularly for those who know and love his work. But even for those who don’t, this house is alive with great stories and full of beautiful Victorian treasures. The Charles Dickens House is open from Monday to Saturday, from 10a.m. to 5p.m. Entry is 3.50, 2.50 or 1.50 pounds.

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In Charles Dickens' footsteps

February 26th 2008 06:15
In my girlhood imagination there were two Londons; the first a grand, golden, royal city, a collage of TV images and magazine pictures of Buckingham Palace, royal coaches, Big Ben, the Tower of London and Beefeaters; the second, a dark, chaotic old place, verging on the grotesque, springing straight from the pages of Charles Dickens’ novels, of crowded houses, dirty streets, close, noisy taverns, seething courtrooms, dank prisons, oppressive poverty and omnipresent injustice.

The Charles Dickens House, London
The Charles Dickens House


Most of my first London is here, part of the living landscape, easily recognisable, and, in reality, pretty much as it was in the pictures. Much of the second remains too. As Ed Glinert writes in his guide to Literary London, “There is little of London that isn’t Dickensian, so intensely did the author walk its streets and use both its major landmarks and its more obscure sites in his stories”. However, hidden behind the overlays of time and progress, the Dickensian London is harder to find and demands more of the imagination. So, armed with Literary London and following Glinert’s guided walk, “From Dickens’ House to Fagan’s Den” I set off to uncover it.

The walk is a rough triangle. It leads out along Holborn’s Theobald Road, a roaring traffic clogged, concrete bounded thoroughfare, into Oliver Twist territory, first to Hatton Garden, site of Fang’s “very notorious Metropolitain Police Station’ then to Saffron Hill, locale of Bill Sykes Three Cripples pub. It continues along Clerkenwall Green scene of Oliver Twist’s arrest, then turns into Goswell Road where Mr Pickwick lived. It passes the 21st century village of Barbican and follows Aldergate Street, which sits like an urban gorge at the bottom of cliffs of glass and steel and where, at the long-gone Albion Hotel, Dickens celebrated the completion of Nicholas Nickleby. At Cheapside, where abseiling builders crawl like flies up the side of a fat round tower and where Mr Jaggers meets Pip in Great Expectations, it turns again. Leading back along Newgate Street, past the site of the infamous Newgate Prison, where Fagin is excecuted, Barnaby Rudge imprisoned and Magwitch of Great Expectations dies, it crosses the Holborn Viaduct, above the site of Fagin’s den. It passes the 16th century Staple Inn, described in Edwin Drood and still standing, Chancery Lane, the setting for Bleak House and Gray’s Inn where Dickens worked as a solicitor’s clerk. Here, back at Theobald Road, the triangle closes but the walk continues, over to Great Ormond Street past the Childrens’ Hospital where little Johnny dies in Our Mutual Friend. It finishes at Doughty Street, at the Charles Dickens House and Museum.

Cheapside, London
Anseiling builders in Cheapside


This was a long day’s walk, punctuated by many breaks and deviations. It was thought-provoking, rather moving journey too. It was trip down memory lane, back to the world of Oliver Twist, Mr Pickwick, Pip, Barnaby Rudge and Dickens himself. It gave a scope and a context to my Dickensian London but not a complete or concrete picture, just a few fragmented glimpses, some plaques and a lot of lingering ghosts among the distractions of towering glass and concrete, the roaring traffic and the constrained grey city suits. Understandably so, London, as Dickens knew and drew it, is long gone, buried with the Victorian world from which it was born. And a good thing too, many would say, probably even Mr Dickens himself. But still, I for one will always be grateful for and stand in awe of the sensitive soul, the keen eye and the brilliant pen, that wove that world into so many memorable stories and gave it life in our imaginations. I’m grateful, too, to Mr Glinert for tracing those places from the stories and setting them down in a path for others to follow.

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The London of Literature

February 23rd 2008 10:23
Just when I thought I was nearing the end of my list of things to do in London, a particularly thoughtful, highly appropriate and deeply appreciated Christmas present, from my eldest son, sent me off on a new and fascinating round of exploration.

Temple, London.
The Inns of Temple

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I’d read the history. I’d made a slow circle of the building and marveled from the pavement at its splendid façade and magnificent dome. I’d read its inscriptions and studied its friezes from the paths of Hyde Park. I’d snapped the photos. Now it was time to step inside the Royal Albert Hall and see the show.

The Royal Albert Hall
Inside the Royal Albert Hall

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Sitting like a giant wedgewood urn opposite Hyde Park, on the Knightsbridge-Kensington border, the Royal Albert Hall was, until the end of the 20th century ushered in wonders like the Gherkin, one of London’s most arresting pieces of architecture. It is still one of the best known and most treasured.

The Royal Albert Hall - London
The Royal Albert Hall

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A Night to remember at Ronnie Scott's

February 15th 2008 14:49
Ronnie Scott's, Soho, London
Ronnie Scott's


Although we booked a week in advance for last Friday night’s performance at Ronnie Scott’s, there were no tables left for either the 6p.m. or the 11 p.m. show. This was not surprising. The band of the night, the Ronnie Scott Legacy Band, rarely performs and the club is always heavily booked. So for 20 pounds we reserved places “at the bar” or “on the side”. Imagining a rush for a few square inches of standing room in mosh-pit crush, or two inches of elbow room at the bar, we arrived early and with a sizeable queue of other early-birds, ran the gauntlet along a narrow corridor towards a doorway half-open on a strip of black space dotted with muted red lights. First we passed the front door security where our names were checked against the guest list and we were warned off using phones and cameras, then through the cloak-room check-in, then through a reception team, where our names were checked against another list and lastly to a charming waitress who showed us to our places “on the side


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Ronnie Scott's; a hot spot for cool jazz

February 14th 2008 12:40
On October 30, 1959, in Gerrard Street, Soho, London, saxophonists Pete King and Ronnie Scott opened the modest basement jazz club which was to become a major influence British music and which was to survive for over half century, becoming a mecca for jazz musicians and fans from all over the world.

Ronnie Scott's jazz club, Soho, London
Ronnie Scott's

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China in London and the Year of the rat

February 12th 2008 10:31
In the Chinese calendar, 2008 is the Year of the Rat and on Sunday, a crowd, many thousands strong, gathered in London to celebrate it.

Chinese New Year, London, 2008
The streets of Chinatown

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Fortnum and Mason’s department store is one of London’s most luxurious and oldest. It has survived over three decades in its Picadilly location and its history is closely linked to London’s and indeed to England’s.

The clock at Fortnum and Mason, London
The Fortnum and Masom clock

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Legendary London Shops; Liberty

February 6th 2008 12:40
Small, old-world and rather rustic, Liberty’s store seems oddly out of step with the heavy stone and concrete edifices of Oxford Circus. Although it isn’t half as busy as its modern counterparts, or as famous as Harrods, it is nonetheless, a very important and very special part of London’s history .

Liberty of London
Liberty of London

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Legendary London Shops - Harrod's

February 4th 2008 20:09
Like Buckingham Palace, the Eye, Trafalgar Square, Covent Garden and the Tower of London, Harrods is on every London visitor’s list.

Harrods of Knightsbridge, London
Harrods of Knightsbridge

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Flying - In whom we trust

February 2nd 2008 15:37
Travel stripes in the London sky
Travel stripes in the London sky


While I’ve never held that pilots were infallible, I’ve always believed that behind those calm, measured voices crackling down from the cockpit with cheery welcomes and reassuring facts about altitudes, temperatures, airspeeds and ETAs, were rock solid people. Perhaps I was naive, or maybe in denial, but I'd never considered the awful possibility that they might be subject to the same random moments of frailty as any human. However, last week, a disturbing story in a London newspaper made me think again


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