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Travel Stripe - December 2007

Christmas in London

December 28th 2007 11:35
Ice rinks, hot chocolate, markets and exotic shop windows – this was Christmas in London.

Ice Rink, Natural History Museum, London
The Ice Rink


In front of the Natural History Museum in South Kensington, the British Airways sponsored Christmas Village opened in late November. Every afternoon, in the early four o’clock darkness, crowds of kids whizzed in reckless circles on the ice-rink. Above, in a prefabricated tent café/bar, among the “defeated by, not brave enough or too cool for the ice” crowd, I discovered British hot chocolate. Thick, sticky and sweet it slid across the tongue and ran down the throat like liquid velvet. Alongside the ice-rink was the Christmas market, a collection of little wooden huts, selling cards and exotic wares made by unknown and forgotten people from faraway places. At its centre were a Christmas tree and a carousel.


Christmas market, Natural History Museum
The Christmas market



Further up the road, in Harrods snow dusted, icicled window, Versace and Prada-clad mannequins gazed out over silver ice-buckets stuffed with champagne and Venetian glasses, past silver dishes laden with caviar and pate de foie gras.

Harrods window, London
Harrods window


Up in Picadilly, at Fortnum and Mason, the windows re-told the story of the Twelve Days of Christmas, while inside floor after floor unfolded tantalizing sights and smells.

Fortnum and Mason's window, London
Fortnum and Mason's window


Of course, there were the pressing crowds, the decorated streets, the Christmas trees, the jolly old chap in the red suit, the last minute rush through the shops and the queues at the counters which characterise Christmas everywhere but those ice-rinks, that hot chocolate and those particular shop windows, were something entirely new to me. I’ll always remember them as uniquely London.

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A Gallery and a Museum in Newcastle

December 24th 2007 02:05
The Laing Art Gallery sits on the edge of Newcastle’s famed and beautiful Blue Carpet Square which is named for the unique pattern of blue tiles which cover it. The Blue Carpet draws the surrounding buildings together, unifying both the old and the new to create an intimate space for relaxing or on occasion, for performance.

The Laing Gallery, Newcastle
The Laing at the edge of the Blue Carpet


The Laing recently claimed the prestigious ‘Large Visitor Attraction of the Year’ award at the North East England Tourism Awards. It has a superb permanent collection, including works by Henry Moore and paintings by the pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood group. The works of local artists like wood engraver Thomas Berwick, the painters of the Newcastle School of Art founded in 1843 and more recent painters like Oliver Kilbourn are a glimpse into the creative as well as the social history of the city.

Oliver Kilbourn, The End of the Shift, The Laing, Newcastle
Oliver Kilbourn, The End of the Shift


At the other end of town, The Discovery Centre sits at the intersection of two busy main roads. It is a large, imposing brick building which looks very much like some grim relic of an early nineteenth century educational institution.

The Discovery Centre, Newcastle
The facade of the Discovery Centre


Inside, it is the antitheses of 19th century gloom. It is light, bright, fun, attractive and tres 21st century. One exhibition tells the story of the shipping industry and the Tyne which was, and still is, the life blood of the region. Another traces the history of Newcastle from the Romans to the present day. The “Working Lives” exhibition outlines the “hard graft and ingenuity” that is the story of the Newcastle worker through boom and bust from crops and coal to computers.

Discovery Centre, Newcastle
Entrance Hall, Discovery Centre


Finally, DVDs in a little video corner introduces some famous Newcastle inventors like George and Robert Stephenson, of the locomotive fame, Joseph Swan who invented the filament light bulb in 1978, Gladstone Adams, the father of windscreen wipers, Arthur George, the author of the Joystick and a clutch of 21st century corporations like DUK responsible for Biometrics fingerprinting, Global Point Technologies who introduced satellite tracking and Peratech of the Touch Smell Robot.

While afternoon browse through a gallery and a museum can only really give a summary of a place and its history, the Laing and the Discovery Centre sum up Newcastle, its history and its people most impressively and send the visitor away with good, if superficial understanding of the place and a keen appetite for more.
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Grainger Town, Newcastle

December 21st 2007 08:36
A preview of Newcastle from the top deck of the Newcastle-Gateshead Hop-on Hop-off city bus tour gives a great overview of this beautiful city and a wonderful introduction to its history, but to really see and feel the city, the curious tourist needs to get down among its grand old buildings, walk its streets and lanes and sit in its squares and parks.

Grey Street Grainger Town, Newcastle
Grey Street


Newcastle has a boom and bust history and nowhere is the boom of the 19th century more apparent than in its city centre, Grainger Town. Having made their fortunes in coal and shipping and having earned Newcastle a place of prominence on the British as well as the world stage, the city fathers of the time were inspired to build a new Newcastle, to reflect their golden age of wealth and power. As their model, they chose ancient Rome in its golden age and appointed the architect Richard Grainger to realise their dream.

George Stephenson, Central Station, Newcastle
George Stephenson


When finished in 1842, the area was described as the city of palaces. Recently regenerated, it is a precinct of elegant Victorian and Georgian neo-classical buildings which now house cafes and restaurants and offer fantastic shopping. It includes the splendid Central Railway Station, with its monument to George Stephenson, the Novacastrian who invented the steam locomotive. Grey Street, the city’s “main” street remembers Earl Grey, a name which resonates with tea-drinkers the world over. The focal point of the area is Grey’s monument, at the top of the street, which features the great teaman himself and was built to commemorate the Reform Act of 1832, drafted when Grey was Prime Minister. Running off Grey Street is the Central Arcade which, with its triple domed glass and steel ceiling and tiled walls, is reminiscent of those beautiful, 19th century Parisian “galleries”. It was built in 1840 for Richard Grainger and is believed to the work of the architect John Wardle. It was originally a commercial exchange, then later a newsroom later still an Art Gallery. It was rebuilt in 1906 after a fire and today houses a number of retail outlets, a Starbucks café and the Newcastle Tourist Information Centre.

Central Arcade, Grainger Town, Newcastle
Central Arcade


To walk in Grainger Town is to walk in another world, a world which is a monument to wealth, power, vision and beauty, a world which has carefully preserved the past, brilliantly harnessed the present and judiciously keeps a window open to the future.




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Coal, Geordies, ships, the River Tyne and hardy natives, known as Novacastrians, who brave glacial winter temperatures in t shirts – this was the extent of my knowledge of Newcastle until chance took me there a few weeks ago.

The Tyne Bridge Newcastle
The Tyne Bridge

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London is full of surprises. There are remnants of villages that have been half-devoured by developments, slivers of past eras wedged between modern high-rises; patches of nature, by-passed by roads jammed with speeding traffic and little pieces of other countries, foreign footholds on British soil, like Soho’s China town, Brick Lane’s little India and of course, that slice of the wide brown land, Earl’s Kangaroo Court.

South Kensington, London
Le Tricolor flies in South Kensington

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Urbis - of the city of Manchester

December 11th 2007 20:57
In 1996 the area around the old Print Works and Arngate in Central Manchester was hit by an IRA bomb. Fortunately, although 300 hundred people were injured, there were no fatalities and happily, the destruction was limited, in the main, to a car park. As it rebuilt in the aftermath of the bombing, Manchester became an international model of city centre development, with innovative buildings, malls, monuments, and spaces. But the star of this showpiece of urban development must surely be Urbis, Manchester’s state of the art exhibition centre.

Urbis, Manchester
Urbis

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A minute history of Manchester

December 11th 2007 00:11
The Roman invasion, the Danish marauders, the Saxon settlers, the Norman Conquest, the Industrial Revolution, the World War 2 Blitz and the IRA bombing, Manchester has endured and survived them all, rebuilding and reinventing itself for over almost two thousand years, to become the vibrant modern metropolis that it is today. Its streets and its architecture tell its long and fascinating story.

Triangle Centre Manchester Eye
Modern Manchester

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High in the London Eye

December 7th 2007 05:13
Although the latest and newest of London’s great landmarks, the London Eye has rapidly become one of its most popular. 3.5 million visitors per year queue like cattle in the corrals that stretch back from the river alongside County Hall, and wait for hours for a 45 minute whirl through the sky above the Thames.

The London Eye
The Eye from Southbank

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London Bridges

December 5th 2007 00:58
The River Thames has been a vital part of London since its beginnings as a Roman fort almost two thousand years ago. The buildings and monuments which cluster along its banks as it snakes its way down to the sea trace the city’s growth and mark the chapters of its history. So too, do the bridges which span it.

The Thames River, London
The Thames

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Putting on the Ritz

December 4th 2007 06:45
The Ritz Hotel London
The Ritz Picadilly


Frequented by Royals, rock stars and the rich, hence, dripping with class and privilege, the Ritz has long enjoyed a reputation as the best joint in town – any town - Paris, New York, Rome or London. To ordinary folk it is the epitome of all that is luxurious, exclusive and, often, unattainable. Its pomp and opulence have informed such songs as the cheeky 1930s “Putting on the Ritz” and stories like F. Scott Fitzgerald’s whimsical “A diamond as big as the Ritz”, not to mention expressions, like the stock reply to any dissatisfaction with fare or service at family tables the world over - “What do you think this is, the Ritz?” or even “Where do you think you are, the Ritz?” So, what, really, makes the Ritz so special? What is it actually like behind that grand façade? What exactly is it that brings in all those big names and all those megabucks? We’d always wondered. Then, thanks to a recent surprise invitation to lunch at the London Ritz, we found out


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