Read + Write + Report
Home | Start a blog | About Orble | FAQ | Sites | Writers | Advertise | My Orble | Login

Travel Stripe - November 2007

A short history of Soho

November 29th 2007 14:59
With its cosmopolitan mix of people and its many diverse bars, restaurants, clubs and cafes, Soho is one of London’s interesting and entertaining areas. It is also one of its most popular with tourists and locals alike.

The land on which Soho was built originally belonged to Westminster Abbey but was appropriated by King Henry VIII and used as a hunting ground until 1652. Its name comes from the call used by the hunters when they spotted a prey. It is one of the oldest settled areas outside the city of London. Aristocrats, whose homes had been destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666, built the first houses and Soho soon became a highly desirable address. As its popularity with the gentry waned, it saw its first wave of migration, mainly from economic and religious refugees, like the French Protestant Huguenots who settled there in 1685. By the 1800s, Soho was home to many different ethnic groups from all parts of Europe as well as fleeing radical political figures and fugitive revolutionaries like Karl Marx.


Soho Square, London
The summer house in Soho Square


Soho Square dates back to the time of the first settlement after the Great Fire. At its centre is a shady green pocket handkerchief park, with a statue to Charles II and a wooden summer house which was built in 1875-76. The legacy of Soho Square’s early migrants remains in the French Protestant Church and St Patrick’s church, both built in 1893.


Greek Street, named after Greek refugees from the 17th Century Ottoman invasions still has buildings which survive from that period. Also sited here is the House of St Barnabas for destitute women established in 1746. Its most famous establishment and also part of Soho’s French legacy, is La Maison Bertaux patisserie, the oldest in London and structurally unaltered since it was built in 1871. The former Cat Stevens once lived in Greek Street too!

La Maison Bertaux, Soho, london
La Maison Bertaux, Greek Street


Gerrard Street, now the location of London’s Chinatown, was won in a duel by Baron Gerard of Brandon and developed as part of the first aristocratic settlement. As the arisitocrats drifted away to the more fashionable West, rents dropped and migrant communities, including French, Italian and Jewish moved in. After World War II, thousands of agricultural workers from Hong Kong arrived. In 1985, the City of Westminster renovated the street in oriental style and made it a pedestrian zone in recognition of the significance of the Chinese community.

Chinatown, Gerrard Street, London
Chinatown, Gerrard Street


Old Compton Street is Soho’s high street and the site of its oldest shop, now the Algerian Coffee Stores. The buildings, bars and restaurants in and around Compton street are steeped in history and the stories of the people who lived and visited there, including great artists, writers and musicians. Next door to Bar Italia, in Frith Street, is the house where Mozart stayed with his family in 1764 and 1765 and above it, the room where John Logie Baird first demonstrated television in 1926. Ronnie Scott’s, over the road, has been the venue for nearly all the big names of jazz since it opened in 1959. The French house in Dean street was a haunt of Maurice Chevalier and General De Gaulle.

Soho is a fascinating area, always alive and always humming with activity. There is always something interesting to do, see, learn, drink and eat in Soho.


58
Vote
   


The Adelphi Theatre, The Strand, London
The Adelphi Theatre


I missed the 1990s record-breaking London Palladium production of Joseph and the Amazing Technicolour Dream Coat, starring Jason Donovan. My first Joseph was a 1980s school production which was, well, a boys’ school production, but I loved the way the great bible story was told and the way the characters were sung and – er - “danced”, even by Year 10 larrikins. Some years later, my House won the school competition with “Any Dream Will Do". I loved it too, even bellowed by a chorus of 12 to 18 year-olds. Finally, I watched the BBC series, Any Dream Will Do, where the gentle Andrew Lloyd Webber and a brutally honest panel of selectors mowed down serried ranks of hopefuls to find their dream Joseph for the latest West End production at the Adelphi Theatre on the Strand. Joseph was back and this time I couldn't miss it.

Against all odds, as seats in any show’s early days are hard to come by, a few weeks ago, we found ourselves gazing down from the Dress Circle, as the orchestra tuned and the kids’ chorus skipped onto the stage. The show is a long, long way from that school production. It is quite a way too, apparently, from the 1990s production. It's a Joseph for a new 21st century generation. The Observer described it as “funny, slick, camp” and it is. It is peppered with wit, innuendo, subtle digs and little nods.

Lee Mead is a great Joseph, capturing and conveying the character’s smugness, superiority, self-righteousness, moments of dejection, opportunism, cunning and prevailing optimism through his expressive performance in both song and dance. Narrator Preeya Kalidas’ sensational (and astonishingly powerful) voice compels you to listen and follow the story, even when the stage is a riot of movement and noise. Stephen Tate is an archetypal, beleaguered, patriarchal Jacob, a Donald Trump meets Liberace Potipher and a mystical, mysterious Guru. Dean Collinson, playing Herod as Elvis Presley, is brilliant in every minute detail of "the King's" voice and gesture, as he deals with the business of the other King. In the words of the Daily Express, “ he brings the house down”.

Anthony Van Laast’s choreography is amazing. There’s so much variety, from stylized Egyption, to rock n’ roll, to almost pure acrobatics, to the few simple moves done so well by the children’s chorus. Costumes too, are spectacular - and clever, capturing the essence of the characters and their lives, like Potipher’s slick tycoon’s suit and the "wives" vampish burkhas and billowing tent-robes, or a song, like Joseph's ever expanding dream coat in “Give Me My Coloured Coat” or the dancers in yellow corn-sheaf robes for the eleven sheaves dream song. The music, with its takes on different styles, like the reggae “Benjamin” number, the C&W brothers' good times on the farm song, or the nostalgic French accented Paris café style of “Those Canaan Days” is brilliant. And then, there are a myriad of superb details of set design, props and lighting, that underpin it all, like the sensuous decor and seductive lighting of the scene with Potipher's wife.

As the Evening Standard said “With its mixture of infectious energy and joie de vivre Joseph and the Technicolour Dream Coat is a heavenly triumph.” It is. It's a beginning to end endless smile and I wouldn't have missed it for all those stars up there.



51
Vote
   


Hampton Court Palace

November 27th 2007 18:59
]Just 30 minutes by train from London Waterloo, on a picturesque tree-bordered bend in the Thames and set in 60 acres of rambling gardens, is magnificent Hampton Court Palace.

Hampton Court Palace, England
Hampton Court Palace on the Thames


This was the home of Henry VIII and his first wife Catherine of Aragon, then, when she was ousted after failing to give him a son, of his second wife Anne Boleyn. Henry’s third wife, Anne of Cleves, was banished to Hampton Court and lived here, in exile, until her death.

Cardinal Wolsey, Henry VIII's right hand man, also lived at Hampton Court in the 1520s, until he fell from favour with the King and was beheaded for treason. The Wolsey rooms house the current Young Henry VIII exhibition, which looks at the life of the “pin-up” prince (hot blooded lover, warrior and superb athlete with a well-turned calf) before he became a grumpy old man, (paranoid, constipated impotent ruin with a septic calf)

Hampton Court Palace, England
Hampton Court Palace, main entrance


Despite the many subsequent occupants and renovations to the palace, it still has the stamp of the court of Henry VIII. The kitchens which, when the King was in residence, fed up to 800 people on the most exotic fare, are the largest surviving 16th century kitchens. The Chapel Royal was the scene of Henry’s son Edward’s Baptism and of his marriage to his last wife, Catherine Parr. In the Tiltyard, which now houses a café, Henry apparently displayed his skill with the jousting stick or watched tournaments from the towers. He also enjoyed Real Tennis on the Royal tennis courts which are still in current use. It was Henry who enclosed the 250 acre Home Park for hunting. Today, it is home to 350 fallow deer, as well as a golf course and the annual Hampton Court Palace Flower Show. And somewhere among the ancient spears, shields, pistols and muskets displayed in extraordinarily complex and really beautiful formations in the guard room of the King’s Apartments, there must surely be one that was grasped in the hand of the hot-blooded warrior King.

Hampton Court Palace, England
The Stairs up to the King's Appartments


Most of the rest of the Palace and gardens speaks of later reigns. The King's appartments we see today, furnished in 1700 by William III with magnificent period tapestries and works of art, are said to be the best baroque apartments in the world. The Queen’s apartments were originally intended for his wife, Mary II, who unfortunately died of smallpox in 1694, before they were completed. The Banqueting House, overlooking the Thames, where William held small private parties, was built in 1700. In 1837, George II decorated and furnished the private informal apartments now known as the Georgian Rooms. The Queen’s apartments, as they are at present were furnished and decorated for his Queen, Caroline.

Privy Gardens, Hampton Court Palace, England
The Privy Garden


Over the centuries, many people added their own touch of beauty to the Hampton Court Palace gardens and many of them been maintained or restored to itheir original design. The 13 fountains and the parterre of the Great Fountain garden were the work of William III and Mary II. The Yew trees were planted by Queen Anne (1702 to 1714). The flower beds are Victorian and the herbaceous borders were added in 1920. The Privy, King William’s private garden, has been restored to its 1702 state. The Knot garden, is a modern recreation of a 16th century garden of Henry VIII’s time. The sunken Pond Gardens, now planted with flowers, once held freshwater fish. The Orangery was built to nurture Mary II’s exotic collection which included cacti, orange and lemon trees. Planted in 1768 by landscape gardener Capability Brown, but still yielding beautiful grapes, the Great Vine is one of Hampton Court’s most famous attractions.

The Great Vine, Hampton Court Palace
The Great Vine


The Wilderness garden began as orchard in Henry VIII’s time, then, in the 17th century it became a series of intertwining paths with a maze of tall hedges. Today, only the maze remains. The most recent addition is the 20th century garden which was converted from a horse paddock in the 1970s to train apprentice gardeners.

The Orangery, Hampton Court Palace
The Orangery


Hampton Court Palace has everything. It has beauty, history, stories, and the marks of so many people, famous, infamous and completely anonymous, who lived and worked here. It is truly fascinating and enchanting place.
51
Vote
   


London City - city of contrasts

November 26th 2007 13:05
The City of London, generally referred to as “The City”, is London’s business and financial centre. Its landmarks stretch along the north bank of the Thames from the Old Bailey, at the west end, to the Tower of London at the east.

Contrast of old and new, London City
Contrast of old and new

[ Click here to read more ]
50
Vote
   


Taxi, London
London taxi


For a long time I wondered about those figures in the bright yellow safety vests and helmets, with maps wedged into frames, rather like music-stands, on the handle bars of their motorbikes, who slowly cruise the streets of London, squinting at monuments and peering into buildings. At first I took them for couriers. Yet, somehow their pace (snail’s) and style (cautious) didn’t quite fit with the classic motorcycle courier’s speed and daring. Then I thought they might be tourists but the absence of cameras made that seem unlikely. They were clearly a group or force of some kind, united by a uniform of sorts (vests, helmets, maps, music stands and motorbikes) and certain distinctive behaviours (squinting and peering at monuments and buildings) Perhaps they were security guards ensuring the safety of the city’s landmarks or special agents tracking suicide statue bombers


[ Click here to read more ]
53
Vote
   


Canary Wharf
Canary Wharf


Canary Wharf stands on the West India Dock, once one of the country’s busiest and most important. It was a key link in the chain of London’s early growth and prosperity, infamously so, as it was from West India dock that ships set sail to take on slaves from Africa. After delivering their living cargo to the plantations of the West Indies, they reloaded with sugar and returned to London. The docklands continued to thrive after the abolition of slavery in 1807 until the 1960s when container shipping and air transport gradually eclipsed traditional sea transport. They finally closed when all shipping trade moved to the container port down river at Tilsbury. For a time they remained neglected, decaying, almost forgotten, all but deserted


[ Click here to read more ]
63
Vote
   


Australia vs Nigeria at Craven Cottage

November 19th 2007 13:15
Seizing the small window of light that is the London day, now that winter grey and gloom have suddenly descended, we set off for Craven Cottage Soccer Stadium at Fulham last Saturday to watch the soccer (or football) match between Australia and Nigeria.

Craven Cottage, London
Craven Cottage Stadium

[ Click here to read more ]
36
Vote
   


Out where the land meets the sea, across the Mersey, is the Wirral a stunning strip of English coastline. And at the end of the Wirral line, about half an hour from Liverpool, is the beautiful little town of West Kirby.

South Parade, West Kirby
The sea from South Parade

[ Click here to read more ]
27
Vote
   


One Perfect London Day

November 15th 2007 20:29
Inspired by Photography Tips’ post about Street Photography on this morning’s Popular Orble Posts, I set off, armed with camera and notebook, along Bankside, to explore and see what I could capture.

It was a rare day for late autumn London, a perfect day; windless, dry and cool, with a clear blue cloudless sky. It was a day of sharp, contrasting light, of bright, blinding sunshine and dark, crisp-edged shadows. It was the kind of day you have to seize, savour and store away to remember, later, when winter throws a veil of damp grey over everything


[ Click here to read more ]
51
Vote
   


Leaving Paris

November 14th 2007 14:13
It’s an easy way out of Paris. Fifteen minutes across town in a taxi, cruising along the along the Boulevards and around the fringes of Montmartre to Gare du Nord.

Boulevard Montmartre Paris
Boulevard Montmartre

[ Click here to read more ]
50
Vote
   


Parlez-vous francais?

November 12th 2007 22:34
It’s often said that unless you speak French, you'll have a terrible time in France.

Eiffel Tower Paris
Lawn resting

[ Click here to read more ]
47
Vote
   


Notre Dame de Paris

November 9th 2007 23:27
Notre Dame de Paris stands, like a majestic Gothic flagship, on the eastern end of the Ile de La Cite, in the centre of the River Seine, at the heart of Paris.

The Seine, Ile de la Cite
The Seine, near Notre Dame

[ Click here to read more ]
55
Vote
   


The Eiffel Tower

November 7th 2007 19:50
It's as French as the baguette, the beret or the bleu, blanc et rouge, the most famous monument in France and the most prominent landmark in Paris. What tourist hasn't photgraphed it from every angle and suffered endless queues to scale at least the first tier of its 1652 steps or to ride the elevator up one of those curving piliers? Whether you catch your first glimpse of it from the banks of Seine, the courtyard of the Palais de Chaillot or from Les Invalides and across Le Champs de Mars, it's breathtaking

La Tour Eiffel Paris
The Eiffell Tower

[ Click here to read more ]
42
Vote
   


Chez la coiffeuse in Paris

November 6th 2007 19:57
I've always had a fear of the unknown hairdresser. It dates back to my teenage years, when a certain Monsieur Moliere (alias Gary Gallagher) of a long-forgotten, and probably long gone, Auckland Salon, high-handedly and before my dismayed eyes, turned my almost shoulder length bouffant into a bowl-cut bob just hours before the school ball. Ever since, I've avoided the high-handed, the flamboyant and, yes, even those with French names, for the coiffeur who knows that trim means trim. While I haven't often been surprised beyond my wildest dreams when I've faced the mirror at the finish, neither have I been shocked beyond belief.

Statue of Moliere, Rue de Richelieu, Paris
Statue of Moliere, Rue de Richelieu, Paris

[ Click here to read more ]
82
Vote
   


The Paris cafe

November 5th 2007 16:07
Le cafe. Every Paris arrondissement has hundreds of them, every quartier, dozens, every street four or five and there's one, it seems, on every corner. It's an integral part of French social life and culture. Part dining room, part lounge room, and even part office, for the millions who live in tiny appartments and studios, it's an extension of home.

Cafe de Flore Paris
Cafe de Flore Paris

[ Click here to read more ]
48
Vote
   


Shopping in Paris

November 2nd 2007 21:14
Style, taste, elegance, chic, glamour, quality, originality, the classic cut, the perfect fit, le look francais, that petit je ne sais quoi - these are the things that bring shoppers from all over the world to Paris.

Boutique - Paris
Boutique - Rue Vivienne Paris

[ Click here to read more ]
56
Vote
   


Paris - the Bizarre and Grotesque

November 1st 2007 20:28
"It's so French" is the catch cry of the misofranc and the francophile alike. On the lips of the former it's code for "How rude! How arrogant! How inefficient! " How unnecessary! while rolling off the tongue of the latter, it translates as "What chic! What flair! What class! What savoir faire!" However, love them or hate them, most of us will admit that style, quiet good taste and understated elegance are hallmarks of France and the French - usually........!

The American dream Bar Multiplexe - Paris
A bar in Paris

[ Click here to read more ]
60
Vote
   


More Posts
2 Posts
8 Posts
9 Posts
157 Posts dating from July 2007
Email Subscription
Receive e-mail notifications of new posts on this blog:
Moderated by Patricia
Copyright © 2006 2007 2008 On Topic Media PTY LTD. All Rights Reserved. Design by Vimu.com.
On Topic Media ZPages: Sydney |  Melbourne |  Brisbane |  London |  Birmingham |  Leeds     [ Advertise ] [ Contact Us ] [ Privacy Policy ]