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Travel Stripe - August 2007

Great Buildings of Kuala Lumpur

August 30th 2007 10:00
Kuala Lumpur
The Menara KL and the Petronas Towers


From the modest kampong set up in the 1820s by Malay settlers from Sumatra, Kuala Lumpur has developed into a thriving, twenty first century metropolis which can boast some of the world’s most spectacular architecture. Although some buildings, like the Menara KL and the Petronas Towers, can be seen from the mall, the plaza, the pool or the hotel window, it’s worth venturing into the streets and braving the rather scary and incredibly noisy traffic to get a different perspective. It’s also worthwhile taking a stroll to look at some older, less prominent, but by no means less impressive, buildings.


The Petronas Towers is KL’s most famous landmark. It was designed by the Argentine-American architect Cesare Pelli for the Malaysian oil company Perolium Nasional and was constructed between 1992 and 1998. Its twin shafts, glass curtain walls and scalloping are unique but its footprint; an 8 sided star with rounded nodules is a common feature of Islamic architecture. It is this blend of innovation and tradition that make the twin towers such a fitting symbol for the Malaysian nation. It has rapidly become one of the world’s most photographed buildings and its fame was increased even further by the Sean Connery/ Catherine Zeta-Jones film Entrapment. Although the Petronas towers have now been surpassed as the world’s tallest building by Taipei 101, they still remain as the world’s tallest twin towers and as an architectural icon.


The Menara KL, which doubles as a communications tower and observation post, is another example of the blending of modern functional architecture with traditional, Islamisc decorative features. By day it is the conventional telecommunications tower with a long shaft, followed by a pod and topped with antennae. But by night it is lit by a typically Islamic checkerboard pattern of lights which shine like jewels against the sky.

The old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station, on Jalan Sultan Hishamudda is as breath-takingly beautiful and extraordinary in its own way, for its own time as the Petronas towers is, in its distinctive fashion, in this age. It was designed by the British architect, Arthur Benson Hubback, who had served in India and brought a wide knowledge of Anglo-Asian architecture to the project. The station’s style, labeled Neo-Moorish, Indo-Saracenic or Neo-Saracenic, was common at the time and incorporates typical Islamic turrets, arches, checkerboard patterns and mosaics with touches of late Victorian grandeur. Although the station no longer echoes with the whistle and hiss of steam and the clank of iron wheels, it is preserved for posterity as a museum.

Another of KL’s landmark buildings is the old Royal Selangor Club which was once the domain of the pink gin, the panama hat, the Somerset Maugham suit and the white glove. It’s a long, low, white, mock Tudor structure with a red-tiled roof, set on an expansive lawn. You can almost hear echoes of ball on bat, restrained clapping and ra ras. The British flag was lowered here for the last time in 1957, when independence was declared and Malaysia was born. The site, originally called Selangor Padang was then re-named Merdeka Square. The old building now serves as a backdrop to the new nation’s annual independence or Merdeka celebrations in the Square.

These are just four of KL’s great buildings. There are hundreds more, equally fascinating some of them large and modern, but many of them small, modest and ancient. They all have their own special stories and they are all part of the multi-cultural history of the city and its people. Kuala Lumpur echoes constantly with the sounds of construction as it continues to grow and its architecture contiunes to develop and flourish.
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Malaysian couple in traditional dress
Couple in traditional Malaysian dress


"The shopping’s great in KL but that’s it! You wouldn’t want to spend more than couple of days there”, a sun-tanned latte-sipper in a Melbourne café advised her earnestly listening friends.

True, the shopping is great in K.L., you can buy anything there and what’s more everything is either reasonably or incredibly cheap. Even in the high-end centres like KLCC, under the Petronas Towers, you can snag a Gucci or a Zegna for a good price while over on the Bukhit Bintang, also known as the Golden triangle, in swanky malls like Lot 10 and Starhill there are more well-priced designer deals. Then, of course, there’s China Town, where you can buy copies of all the same stuff for less than song.

But the bargains don’t stop at clothes. There are plazas, like the BB (Bukhit Bintang) stacked with electronic goods and gadgetry; computer gear, cameras, ipods, mobile phones as well as all the software and accoutrements to go with. Cheap DVDs and CDs, both real and pirated, abound.

The cavernous lobbies of the KL shopping mega-malls also favour the showcase, often featuring local crafts, clothes, jewellery and textiles by local producers and designers. This is fortunate, because it’s possible that in the race for global goodies at Asian prices, the true treasures of Malaysia might go un-noticed – treasures like the beautiful lace kabaya, the delicate chain of three brooches that fasten them and the gorgeous sarongs that go with them or the stunning batik prints and traditional clothes with a modern twist. The prices of these works of art are a steal.

Shops open late, always after ten, but often after noon, and close as late as midnight. They are always packed with people, most of them tourists, like our latte-sipping friend, trawling for the latest and cheapest. It’s a long, hard, serious business hunting bargains, haggling over prices and finally hammering home the purchase. So to ease the shopper from one deal to another, there are endless chains of pit-stop cafes, bars, eateries and ice-cream parlours. Then to break up the hours, there’s the spectacle, such as the fun-park with its roller coaster screeching and swooping around the upper reaches of Times Square Berjaya. And last, but not least, there’s the ubiquitous foot massage, to ready the worn-out shopper’s feet for the trot back to the hotel.

Yes it is true, the shopping is great in KL, in fact, the whole shopping experience is great in KL but that definitely isn’t it, there’s more - lots more.



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What's happening at Heathrow?

August 24th 2007 08:55
London St James Park
Tranquil environment in St James Park


Heathrow is always a clamour of discordant noise. There’s a continual clang of metal and a rattle of pneumatic drills as the bits of the old place are reduced to dust and new ones pulled from the rubble. There’s a perpetual rumble of traffic, underscored with the whine and blast of jet engines. There are intermittent echoing, humanoid voices, screeching mothers and bawling children. There’s the constant clip of hurrying feet.

Last weekend, 250 placard-waving protesters added their voices to the din. Moved by Heathrow’s plans to build its fifth terminal and its third runway, they set up a village of tents called Camp Climate Change in a field belonging to the London’s Imperial College on the airport’s north-west border. They were attended by a heavy police presence and strong warnings from Downing Street about disruption of airport activity. But into the microphones of the hovering omni-present BBC, the campers hotly denied any intention of disrupting services and upsetting travelers’ plans. They simply aim to draw attention to the impact of airports and air-travel on climate and environment and to open debate about Heathrow’s next giant bite into the surrounding landscape.

Against a backdrop of scaffolding and screened-off construction, battling background jackhammers and engines, a Heathrow spokesperson reassuringly listed proposed “responsible” measures to reduce its carbon footprint and waved away the interviewer’s concerns.

But a resident of a nearby village about to be ground under Heathrow’s heel in its next giant step, wasn’t convinced by either. When asked what she thought about carbon emissions, environment and climate, she said “It’s going to take our homes and our community!” Nor did the holiday-makers, heading off to Majorca, seem to be interested in joining the debate. They just wanted cheaper air-fares, shorter queues and bigger hand-luggage allowances.

Can Camp Climate Change accomplish its mission, or is it a lost cause?


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A bar in Bangkok

August 23rd 2007 09:35
Mukus Bar
With Cosmopolitan at Mukus


The main point of foreign travel is to move outside the comfort zone, away from the familiar and the known, to experience the new and the different, to be anonymous and to push self reliance to the limit. Nevertheless, when you’re out there on the edge, it’s great to come upon an occasional oasis of known language, some familiar foods, a few recognisable customs and a welcome that goes beyond good business and cultural courtesies. It’s great to find a place where you feel at home with people who are friends


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Bangkok Nights

August 19th 2007 09:28
One night in Bangkok and the world's your oyster
The bars are temples but the pearls aren't free
You'll find a god in every golden cloister


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A cruise on the river in Bangkok

August 15th 2007 09:01
Bangkok
Temple, Bankok


Often hailed as the Venice of the east, Bangkok is a water city. It clings to the banks of the Chao Praya river and is threaded through with a labyrinth of klongs or canals. The old Bangkok drew its life and its livelihood from the Chao Praya and the klongs. But today, still, giant barges and ferries carry goods and passengers up and down river and long boats ply their trade along the klongs. There are countless cruises of the river and tours of the canals. I took two - one because I simply had to see the Chao Praya by night and the other because I just had to explore what lay beyond the bends of some of its branching arteries


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A spot of shopping in Bangkok

August 13th 2007 08:29
Bangkok is the proverbial shopper’s paradise. It has a multitude of malls, plazas, complexes, centres, arcades and boutiques and even more squares, small shops, markets and street stalls. Whatever you’re looking for, you’ll find it in Bangkok, probably at a lower-than-elsewhere and/or irresistibly flexible price, too.

Thai silk
Traditional Thai silk

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Thailand
Bangkok Temple


Among Thailand’s memorable, not to be missed experiences is the traditional Thai massage. Thousands of tourists swear by it as an antidote to fatigue as well as the other excesses of Thai travel. Many adopt it and incorporate it forever after, as millions of Thais do, into their regular health and fitness routine. There are massage establishments in every Bangkok street. They range from five star to very basic. Many monasteries, like Wat Pho, for example, run training schools and centres where the massage is part of spiritual cleansing and healing


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The Grand Palace - Banglok

August 9th 2007 10:25
There are some places where the wise traveller, rather than bumbling around blindly in a cultural minefield, takes the guided tour. The Grand Palace, in Bangkok, is one of these. Residence of the Royal Family, site of the coronation and throne halls, seat of many important Government offices and home of the revered Emerald Buddha, its protocols and customs are not to be taken lightly. They exist, and they are strictly enforced, not only to protect the precious heritage but to ensure due repect to those who live, work and worship there. At the gates, inspections by guards make certain that visitors' legs, arms and feet are covered. If not, they are re-dressed appropriately in "palace issue". or turned away. In most areas, visitors may look but not touch, in many photographs are prohibited, in some visitors must.follow religious custom and many parts of the place are simply out of bounds. If a Royal personage happens by, everyone must stand, face the said person, bow and remain silent.

Grand Palace Bangkok
Building in the Grand Palace complex

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The Jim Thompson Story

August 8th 2007 08:32
Many people come to Thailand, fall in love with it and never leave. Jim Thompson was one of these people. Born in Delaware, USA in 1906, Thompson worked as an architect until World War II, when he volunteered for service and was sent to European theatre. Towards the end of the war he was posted to Bangkok, where he worked in military intelligence for the O.S.S. After his repatriation and release from the military, he decided to return to Thailand for ever.

The art of silk weaving captured Jim Thompson’s imagination and he set about reving this almost lost cottage craft. Using his own talents as a designer and textile colorist, he contributed a great deal to the manufacture and production process. A skilled marketer and promoter, he won worldwide recognition for Thai silk and turned it into a highly desirable commodity throughout the world. The production of exquisitely designed and produced silks still continues under the Jim Thompson banner today. The main showroom is 9 Surawongse Road in Bangkok but they can be found all over Thailand in prestige boutiques and top-end shops


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You could spend months, years, even a lifetime exploring Thailand's long history, fascinating culture and customs, delicious cuisine, exquisite arts and crafts and profound spirituality. For travellers who don't have this kind of time, the Thailand Cultural Centre, on Tiam Ruamit Road in Huaykwang, Bangkok, brings it all togather in one spectacular evening.

Thailand Cultural Centre
The Thailand Cultural Centre

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Kanchanburi province
Mountains and fields, Kanchanaburi


Kanchanaburi, 130 kilometres to the west of Bangkok on the Myanmar border, is Thailand’s third largest province, covering 19,473 square kilometers. It is a region of breathtaking beauty, with dense mountainous jungles, calm, slow-flowing rivers, hidden caves, and waterfalls. There are pristine national parks which offer all kinds of jungle adventures from elephant treks to white-water rafting


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What are you wearing on the plane?

August 4th 2007 02:34
Plastic Check-in bag
The plastic zip-lock check-in bag


Time was when air travel (like smoking) was synonymous with elegance, glamour and sophistication. People dressed up for the plane. I remember, sometime in the 1960s, farewelling a glamorous neighbourhood sophisticate before she left on the first leg of her flight “home” to England. She wasn’t English, actually, but that was what sophisticates called the place back then


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Don't mention the war!

August 1st 2007 09:45
While it may be possible, and certainly is tactful, not to mention the war in Germany, it's impossible not to think about it. Like an old ghost that won't to be laid to rest, it lingers still. You can sense it in the people's reserve about nationalism and its emblems, like the flag. You can feel its presence beneath the shiny steel and glass of the new buildings that have risen from the ashes of destruction. You can see it in the last few old scarred and mutilated architectural survivors.

St Nikolai's Hamburg
St Nikolai's facade

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